The Adventures of Ripple Effect

Eating Our Way Back Home

2008-06-04T17:48:00.004-04:00

The Delights of the Chesapeake

Three states and a gazillion waterways: rivers, bays, creeks...So many places to explore and so little time! (One day I have to read Michener's Chesapeake.) In the meantime, we have seen so many wonderful sights and enjoyed the bountiful food of the region.

A Tasty Surprise

On our way to a sail shop to have our torn mainsail repaired, we motor- sailed with the jib and planned to anchor after traveling 50 miles, but alas, all of the possibilities for anchoring were shoaled in so we kept going. Twelve hours and 72 miles later (a record for us), we tied up at a free dock in Great Bridge, Virginia. (Not the Chesapeake, but a canal leading to it.)

We really needed to get off of the boat by then, so we crossed the bridge into a thoroughfare filled with stores and restaurants. After perusing the myriad of eateries, we chose Muroni's Mediterranean Restaurant which turned out to be a real find; fabulous food and exquisite presentation equal to any good restaurant in New York. We commented to the waitress that the owner should open a branch in NY, and next thing we knew, Mr. Muroni himself was introducing himself. We promised to add him to our blog, and here he is!

Another Farmers' Market

After thoroughly enjoying the fresh shrimp, shitake mushrooms, kohlrabi and freshly picked strawberries from a farmers' market in North Carolina, I made sure to visit another in the Chesapeake. This time I was able to get fresh sourdough bread and scallops and even picked up a basil plant to enhance our meals aboard. The seafood has been the best I've had in a long time making me wish I lived near the Chesapeake.

Ending the Day at the Crab Pot

While anchoring in a small harbor on the west coast of the Chesapeake to escape 30 kt. winds, we discovered Reedville, a wealthy town created by the harvesting of menhaden, an inedible fish used to make fertilizer and fish oil. At the end of the main street lined with captains' homes (see an example above), we explored the fisherman's museum which had a delightful

miniature town train exhibit. At the end of the day, we dinked across the harbor to the Crab Pot and dined on wonderful fried oysters and pulled pork; we bought sugar toes, a small local fish, which I prepared aboard with potatoes, onions, parsley, and spices. Yum!

Is this almost June? Despite the spring, we have been sailing in very cool temperatures, high winds, threatening skies and rain; Lou and I are bundled up while steering. You would think it was still winter! Did we leave the Bahamas too early?

A Dining Delight in Herring Bay

We took refuge from more 30 kt winds in Herring Bay further up the west coast of the Chesapeake. There was no one around and it was early, so we took the dinghy on a long ride into one of the marinas and discovered Skipper's Pier Restaurant. Everyone was freezing from the high winds, but it didn't stop them from sitting outside on the dock and enjoying the sun and wonderful food. We dined on appetizers at half price: egg rolls stuffed with collard greens and lightly spiced sausage in a delicious soy sauce - in fact, we ordered a second one - marinated skewered beef, and little neck clams in an orange flavored sauce that we soaked up with bread. That, topped off with beer, made up for the lost day of traveling. Funny thing, a few days later, when reviewing my log, I discovered we had been in Herring Bay on the way down south, had even taken a swim in the warm waters, but had no idea of the epicurean delights nearby!

A Bucolic Respite between Sails

Next day, we left by 7:00 am (we've begun to use the early morning hours to make time when the winds are calmer). A Small Craft Advisory was scheduled for the afternoon as it had yesterday, so we sneaked into Harness Creek off the South River of the Chesapeake. Our anchorage was alongside Quiet Waters County Park (Md.), and we went on a brisk walk to discover this fallen log carved into a person riding a serpent chased by a tiger. The day was calm, sunny and warm. Upon returning to the boat, we checked the forecast again and the Advisory was no longer in effect; so, our sails went back up and we traveled about 20 miles further up to another lovely anchorage.

The End of the Chesapeake At the north end of the bay in Maryland is the Chesapeake Canal which leads into Delaware. Before entering the canal is a marina and small basin for anchoring. And, here we found the Chesapeake Inn. What a scene it was when we arrived. We thought it was due to the Memorial Day weekend, but the waitress told us it was like this every 'nice' day. Cigarette boats (the long, sleek, very noisy and fast power boats) came and went all day, and the crowd gathered as if it were the hottest place on earth. We sat at the bar inside (didn't want to wait over an hour for a table), and ordered their famous pizza. This was exceptional pizza; a crust so light and tasty, not too thick, not too thin and wonderfully fresh toppings. You gotta go there!

Anchoring in the basin was another story, however. The basin was so crowded with small to large power boats and sailboats that we ended up anchoring 4 times. Despite the care we took, we still bumped with another boat early in the morning just as we awakened.

A Serendipitous Reunion with Cruising Friends

One of the wonderful things about cruising is the people you meet. We first met Nancy and Bruce of Seabird going south in the Dismal Swamp. We coincidentally kept pace with them throughout our trip allowing us to get to know them better. On the way north, however, we stopped seeing pretty much anyone we knew. We wondered where they all were. Well, after an 11 hour slog through the Delaware Bay motoring from the Canal (another record: 80 miles!), we came into the anchorage at Cape May, and luckily, I spotted Seabird through our binoculars! We were both so excited and invited them aboard to share our dinner which I had been able to prepare while motoring along: meatballs in a cranberry and chili sauce with stove top stuffing and broccoli. In the spirit of cruisers, they brought wine, an appetizer and dessert. They, too, are on their way home (to Maine), and are trying to use up all of their provisions. What a lovely time we had catching up and sharing experiences. Too bad we had to cut the evening short since we all had to be up at the crack of dawn to get an early start.

The Last Leg - The New and The Unfamiliar

The day before our approach to New York City thunderstorms were predicted. We were in need of a protected anchorage and Lou knew of one around the point from Coney Island. Who would think other than a boater that near the hustle and bustle of Brooklyn we could find such a secluded and lovely creek. We spent our last evening watching a male swan chasing the geese away from his cygnets. In the morning, we went under the Verrazano Bridge towards the NY skyline and by the afternoon passed the Tappanzee Bridge for our last meal of our 8 month trip. We were meeting our friends Marty and Mildred Stone at the Striped Bass, one of our favorite dock and dine restaurants in Tarrytown. (Can you tell who the sailors are?) At dusk, we headed across the river to the Nyack Boat Club to tie up for the night.

Home at Last

We are now ensconced in our home on land. It seemed a little strange at first, but now it feels as if we never went - and I'm writing this only a week after returning. I've begun donating clothes and items we really don't need or use because the house appears too cluttered. Right now we are consumed with what Lou calls the of "eternal dross of domesticity": cleaning, organizing, pruning, repairing, and the dreaded paperwork.

Will we go again? Probably, but not this year. Instead, we're thinking of heading to Maine in August/September. In the meantime, we hope to keep in touch with a few favorite cruisers we met along the way. And, of course, Lou has already begun to look at boats. After all, sailors aren't always cruisers. Ripple Effect started out as a sail boat, and along the way, it turned into a cruising boat. Although we weren't one of the smallest or simplest, we certainly were far less sophisticated than most. After all, it is written...

I must go down to the sea again, in a modern high-tech boat,

And all I ask is electric, for comfort while afloat,

And alternators, and solar panels, and generators going,

And deep cycle batteries with many amperes flowing.

I must go down to the sea again, to the autopilot's ways,

And all I ask is a GPS, and a radar, and displays,

And a cell phone, and a weatherfax, and a shortwave radio,

And compact disks, computer games and TV videos.

I must go down to the sea again, with a freezer full of steaks,

And all I ask is a microwave, and a blender for milkshakes,

And a watermaker, air-conditioner, hot water in the sink,

And e-mail and a VHF to see what my buddies think.

I must go down to the sea again, with power-furling sails,

And chart displays of all the seas, and a bullhorn for loud hails,

And motors pulling anchor chains, and push-button sheets,

And programs which take full charge of tacking during beats.

I must go down to the sea again, and not leave friends behind,

And so they never get seasick we'll use the web online,

And all I ask is an Internet with satellites over me,

And beaming all the data up, my friends sail virtually.

I must go down to the sea again, record the humpback whales,

Compute until I decipher their language and their tales,

And learn to sing in harmony, converse beneath the waves,

And befriend the gentle giants as my synthesizer plays.

I must go down to the sea again, with RAM in gigabytes,and teraflops of processing for hobbies that I like,

And software suiting all my wants, seated at my console

And pushing on the buttons which give me complete control.

I must go down to the sea again, my concept seems quite sound,

But when I simulate this boat, some problems I have found.

The cost is astronomical, repairs will never stop,

Instead of going sailing, I'll be shackled to the dock.

I must go down to the sea again, how can I get away?

Must I be locked in low-tech boats until my dying day?

Is there no cure for my complaint, no technologic fix?

Oh, I fear this electric fever is a habit I can't kick.

(written by Brian Eiland cat designer/builder)

Thanks to all of you who have followed our travels. We love your comments and emails. Until our next trip, Ripple Effect is over and out.

Traveling Home

2008-05-20T08:50:00.008-04:00

April 20th, Crossing the Gulf Stream

No matter how good you are at navigation (here are the tools of our navigating: our chart, inlet book, and cruising book), you never know how your trip will turn out because of one small factor: the weather. Until the last minute we hadn't decided if we should make the crossing or not. We kept checking the weather periodically to make sure the winds were with us. Despite all of our researching and precautions, however, mother nature had it in for us.

It started out innocently enough. We were anchored off of an uninhabited island, Allans -Pensacola. This used to be two islands but after a hurricane, the shoals moved, and they are now joined. It was a beautiful, calm day and we dinghied ashore, met some cruisers, and walked across to the other side on a well-worn path to see the amazingly creative sculptures and driftwood signs cruisers have left identifying themselves and their vessels. Usually people gather flotsam and jetsum to craft a whimsical display, but here were some carefully planned and executed presentations. They went on and on from tree to tree. Here is one utilizing old cans that had washed ashore as drums, even with the necessary driftwood sticks! The sign above says, "I don't want to work, I just wanna bang on de drums all day ." Later that day our new friends Penny and George from Star Shot hailed us to say that they had decided to try for the crossing as well, and after a pleasant evening, we both headed west. The forecasts continued to be in our favor so on we went, ready to do an overnight crossing to Port Canaveral. Lou and Tony had carefully studied the navigation, and I prepared dinner and snacks for the overnight watches. I would be at the helm from 10:00 to midnight, Tony until 3:00am and Lou until dawn. We should have heeded the chop, however; as we continued west, the winds turned to north-north-east, a direction never recommended for crossing the Gulf Stream. By this time, it was too late to turn back, so we continued on slogging through the beating and banging. After a sleepless night, the sun came up on the coastline and we were happily greeted by the beautiful, blue waters of Florida. April 30th, The ICW and the Wacamaw River

I wasn't looking forward to traveling the IntraCoastal Waterway again. You know, been there, done that. But, the ICW is always changing and I had forgotten how beautiful it can be. Today we traveled along the Wacamaw River in South Carolina to anchor in an oxbow of a National Wildlife Preserve filled with budding lily pads floatingon the tannic colored water amid bright green cypress trees and their remaining knees. Tony and I took a dinghy ride around and tried to see the turtles sun bathing on driftwood, but they slipped into the water as soon as we came near. Suddenly, in the midst of the serene calm, a large tropical boat chugged by carrying tourists out of Myrtle Beach.

May 2nd, An Inlet Adventure The inlets allow you to leave and enter the ICW from the ocean to make faster time (hopefully). No fear of grounding or power boats speeding by that leave large wakes that roll your boat; no need for careful navigating from marker to marker, and a chance to sail! We had successfully used inlets twice before, once with Tony on an overnight, and a day sail on our own. We wanted to do it again since it was allowing us to make great time, but we didn't know the condition of the New River Inlet due to constant shoaling, so we called Tow Boat U.S., and they said it was ok, it had been dredged in the fall. So we went out the Masonboro/Wrightsville, which was very smooth, and very beautiful, and when we approached the New River buoys 5 hours later, we found waves breaking over them and the depth sounder plummeted to 3 feet. Lou immediately turned around and hailed Tow Boat U.S. on the radio who told us said there must have been a misunderstanding, they never recommend it during these tide conditions (very rolly); "What options did we have?", Lou asked. "Go on to the Bogue Inlet; I'll meet you there and guide you in." And that's just what we did. (Here is Tim with his dog showing us the way.) Of course, the seas were rocking and rolling by that time and we were bushed by 6:00 when we got into our anchorage. Luckily, it was the lovely town of Swansboro, N.C. which we had stopped at on the way down. So, we went ashore, had drinks and dinner at this restaurant on the water as we decompressed and rebalanced our inner rocking, and later, fell into bed.

May 10th, Surprises in Bath and Washington, N.C.

Due to our quick progress up the coast, we had some time to play. (Our home won't be available until May 31st when our tenant moves out) We had heard alot about the charm of both Bath and Washington, North Carolina, and took a 66 mile detour up (and down) the Pamlico River to tie up at a free dock at their separate waterfronts. Here are some surprising events we experienced. You can see why we would return! Bath is the first incorporated city of North Carolina and is filled with green lawns and historic homes and buildings. We passed this library, stopped in to rest, and found that they had a book exchange for boaters. I picked up a copy of a current book Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert, a novel of travel and introspection perfect for me on this trip!

During our walk we passed a field filled with a grain, perhaps wheat? What do we city dwellers

know of crops?

Just as we returned to our boat at the dock, 20kt winds developed without warning. We were on the wrong side of the dock for leaving or peaceful sleep. So Lou and two sailing couples also at the dock helped to kedge off the boat to move it to the leeward (opposite of windward) side of the dock. What that meant was using the dinghy to drop an anchor, attach it to the boat, and use it to pull the bow of the boat into the wind. Despite almost getting the anchor line wrapped around the keel of the boat, it was a successful operation.

People were so friendly in Washington, North Carolina, that they offered to drive us to do our chores, and in fact, the dock attendant drove Lou to a store to get a new tank of propane gas which we use for our stove. In addition, when we were at the local watch repair shop, the owner gave us her personal telephone number in case we needed anything. While I got a haircut, Lou wandered through town and discovered a store that had closed in Nyack and moved south. He used to stop in monthly as a member of their Ginger Club. (After buying 10 bags of crystallized ginger, he got one free.) Of course he stopped in and found Jean, co-owner of Cat Bamboo who remembered him with delight (here she is with her dog on the dock in the above picture) and joined us later for drinks on board. Stopping into the River Gallery, we noticed food being set out. We were just in time for their quarterly open house/reception. What a feast. Every gallery member had brought something homemade. We got to meet so many friendly, interesting people, and even bought a mug and pair of earrings. At the gallery reception, we met Sandy and Joe Davis. Sandy came the next day to interview us for an article in the local paper, and invited

us to their home for dinner. We had trout just caught by her friend, and home baked pecan pie from the mother of one of their boarders, Steve. Here I am with the Davises in their dining room. It was the day before Mother's Day and the flowers were sent to Sandy by her daughter in Israel. May 11th, Stuck in South Lake, N.C. We woke to cloudy, raw and chilly temperatures and had to break out the fleece, gloves and woolen hats. We were actually able to see the vapor of our breath. This meant oatmeal and hot chocolate for warming up. The winds were only 10-15 this morning in the Alligator River, but were expected to reach 35 knots this afternoon. We were racing to the swing bridge before the winds increased since it wouldn't open if they exceeded 35 kts. Got through the bridge, but then heavy rain and winds started so we ducked into an isolated, but protected cove about an hour away to wait out the storm. Now the forecast says the gale won't abate until Wednesday, 3 days away. We'll have to wait to cross the Albermarle Sound into Virginia until then as the winds there can be fierce. Can't even go ashore due to high winds, rain, thunderstorms, and a tornado watch last night. Hope Lou and I don't kill each other by then! Well, at least our cell phones work, and I made brownies to nurture us. On the second day, Lou moved the boat still further inland to a smaller stream with a more protected aspect from the north winds which had developed during the night. The winds continued for the rest of the day, but it was calmer and just beautiful.

Only 2 more weeks to go...

GETTING DEPORTED !!!

2008-04-27T08:48:00.000-04:00

I must be joking, you think. Well, think again. Here's the whole story:

When we entered the Bahamas with our friends Peter and Nancy, Lou went to immigration while we waited, as per the law, on board. The office was closed so he had to walk to the officer's house and return to the office with her to fill out the papers. When he handed me the papers for safekeeping, I filed them, without looking; because the officer would only give us a 3 month visa, Lou posted a reminder in the boat to get our visas renewed in April.

April comes, and while looking at our file in order to identify the appropriate papers, Lou discovers an error. Instead of 3 months, I had been given 14 days. How did this happen? We realize Peter or Nancy must have been given 3 months instead of me. So, we walk to the immigration office on Great Abaco Island, and explain the situation to the clerk at the desk who tells me I will have to leave the country. She admits that a mistake was made, but tells us that we have to take the consequences of not looking at the papers when they were filled out; that we waited 3 months to come in (despite the fact that we hadn't known) and that was that. When I tell her we can't leave, we're on a boat, she replies, "Which part of ""You have to leave the country, don't you understand?""!!! After a while of continued repartee, she leaves and returns to usher us into the office of her superior.

We take off our caps, sun glasses, and sit down. Mr. Hutcheson informs us that everything we have been told is accurate, it's the law; how do I want to leave? At this point, Lou and I are not only in shock, but are aware of the power this man wields over us. After all, he could refuse to extend Lou's visa, or not let me back into the country. I wonder to myself whether he gets a kick-back from the airline. So, we're polite; it's Mr. Hutcheson this and Mr. Hutcheson that until he drives me to the airport sans toiletries or change of clothes because it is too late in the day to make the last flight. And, it is also too late to do a return flight in the same day, so I'll have to stay overnight in Ft. Lauderdale.

At the airport, the clerk gives me a discount rate, I kiss Lou goodbye, and fly off in the Yellow Air Taxi you see in the picture above. It's an 8 seater and the 2 hour trip is gorgeous as I fly over the islands, the ocean, and approach the skyscrapers lining the Florida coast.

In the airport, I'm able to easily call the reservation desks of several nearby hotels by pressing the button aligned to the ads on a horizontal kiosk; I pick Best Western which has the best rate. Pick up and delivery are included as well as a full breakfast.

The rest of the day went smoothly and was quite enjoyable. With my free wifi in the room (thank goodness I had our laptop with me!), I was able to post 3 new updates on my blog, make inexpensive calls using Skype from the computer, watch TV (there was nothing on), take a long, hot shower, and get in and out of a bed without having to do any gymnastics.

Next morning, the full buffet breakfast turned out to be good enough despite the inedible powdered scrambled eggs. With time to kill before my flight, I walked to the nearby mall where I picked up a DVD containing 20 black and white early comedies for only $6.00. (We've already watched the Chaplin, Laurel & Hardy & Albert & Costello - great fun!)

After an uneventful trip back, Lou met me at a local restaurant where we shared stories over rum and coke.

Well, if you have to get deported, this wasn't so bad, except for the $400.00 it cost me. My son Damien, ever the financier, asked what would have happened if I hadn't had the money...good question, but I'm glad I didn't have to find out. Other than the inconvenience and expense, what I will retain from this experience were the feelings of humiliation and powerless- ness as if I were a third class citizen; and that was a result of the attitude of the immigration employees.

What would have happened if we hadn't been honest and tried to extend our visa? We've met many cruisers who say they don't do anything and have no trouble. Yet, one man did admit having the same experience the year before; his delinquent visa date was caught by accident despite numerous previous trips to the Bahamas.

Now I'm a statistic. One of the few sent back. But don't think I won't do anything. I plan to send an email to the department of tourism in response to their request for comments regarding our trip to their country.

North to the Abacos

2008-04-26T08:06:00.037-04:00

The morning we left for the northern Abaco islands, we decided at 7:00 am to follow Ole Pot (his name on his business card!) out through the passage past the Devil's Backbone. Three other boats were supposed to leave with us, but one developed transmission trouble, so he and his buddy boat stayed behind to fix it. That left Mary T who, like us, decided at the last minute to follow the guide. It was pretty funny since he was speeding along with his little outboard motor, and we had to ask him to stay closer for our slow sail boats. In addition, it was just about impossible to understand him given his strong accent and the fact that his hand held VHF radio was full of static. It turned out that the route he followed was identical to that on our GPS, but Mary T's chartplotter showed them on the land. Well, as Lou said, " It was cheap insurance for $35.00."

The destination to this northern Bahamian island chain would be 9 hours long - not very bad since we've traveled this long many times before. This trip, however, was different. Chaotic seas were predicted, and this was my first taste of a long sail in such seas. What are chaotic seas, you might ask? Well, the waves come from different directions and cause the boat to flop around unmercifully throwing you to and fro. After 7 hours, I had had enough, yet had to wait for a safe place to anchor. To make matters worse, the conditions caused too much turbulence in the first cut into a harbor, so we had to continue on for another hour to get to the next cut. Lou, of course, was having a ball with 20 kt winds, and I found that steering helped me and my internal system as well. I was also helped by Sturgeron, a medication for motion sickness sold here in the Bahamas which has no side effects! Two sights along the way made the trip worthwhile. First, I spotted a pod of dolphins through the clear water swimming alongside the boat. The second was something never seen before: beds of seaweed so thick that flotsam and birds were floating on top. Here you can see one of the beaches in the Abacos covered with the seaweed. Perhaps this is a seasonal or weather related occurance.

The Abacos are quite different from the central and southern Bahamas: more of a northern look, more development, more affluence, more Americans. Here are a few highlights from our few weeks there. Hope Town, Elbow Cay

Our adventure here was in a lighthouse. It's the last light kerosene hand operated lighthouses in the Bahamas. We learned that it took years to be built due to sabotage by the local 'wreckers' who made a living from the monthly wrecks that ran aground on the nearby reefs. We climbed to the top, and after taking lots of pictures, were allowed inside to watch Fred, one of two lighthouse keepers, light and crank the apparatus. Fred has worked as the keeper for 37 years, has lived on the grounds (here is his house), and has 5 more years to go before retiring.

Nippers on Guana Cay Nippers is a restaurant/bar/resort on a gorgeous beach overlooking the Atlantic. It is the site for thousands of people twice a year who gather for a concert. The place was hopping when we arrived, partly due to spring break back home. Note the interesting bathing suit on the right above.

Treasure Cay

The beach of this popular resort area, is one of the ten best beaches designated by National Geographic but today was covered in seaweed. Here are some contrasting views from our boat:

Dense palm trees on one side, and resort cottages and their boats on the other. The marina nearby was host to a fishing tournament and everyday the tall fishing boats would come back with their catch. These were pretty and small compared to what they were really after. (sorry, can't figure out how to rotate picture on this program)

Man O' War

This very religious white community founded by Loyalists is so neat and clean, you could just about eat off of the streets. You can see the pride they take in their houses and gardens; in fact, they've won national awards for it. We walked the residential and commercial streets and took a look at the beach. They were boat builders and you can still see them working in their yards.

Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Island

The third largest city in the Bahamas, not very attractive, but full of the services we occasionally needed and yearned for. It is also the location of the airport from which I was deported for a day. (see my next post). After I returned, our friend Tony joined us for a third time to make the crossing over the Gulf Stream and help us get north faster by getting off the intracoastal into the ocean.

Next stop: The good ole U.S. of A!

From South to North: A Different Look

2008-04-25T09:10:00.000-04:00

I'm trying something new and hope it works: I've transferred a link for a map of Eleuthera, Bahamas - Google Image Search so you can see the route we took from the bottom of Eleuthera where we stayed at a marina (the part that looks like a whale's tail), and the two islands at the top. Due to shoaling water, rocks, and impassable cuts, we were unable to simply go in a straight line, but had to travel a circuitous route of about 30 miles through the Current Island Cut. We had a wonderful sail there (without the motor!) and came into Spanish Wells, an island founded by the original Loyalists from the war of independence who ultimately turned to fishing and boat building as their main source of income. Spanish Wells has a different accent, all residents are white, and the look is considerably more like New England than any island we have visited before; in fact, the natives here do not consider themselves to be from Eleuthera. "We're from Spanish Wells," they say.

On shore, we stopped at Jean's house to pay for our mooring. (Our boat is the third up.) Jean is an American who now lives here and serves the cruising community by running a book exchange and providing vast amounts of information.

The next day, we took a fast ferry for Harbour Island through the Devil's Backbone which is named for the numerous reefs which have caused so many groundings and wrecks. In fact, the original Loyalists to both islands were shipwrecked and lived in Preacher's Cave for two years!

Harbour Island has an upscale look compared to Spanish Wells; Many of the residents here are white as well, but black and white seem to live side by side. As we toured in a golf cart, we saw ..."seaside villas and poverty stricken hovels."(Lou's words)

When we left the following day, we hired a guide to follow through the Devil's Backbone out into the ocean and towards the northern islands: the Abacos.

Exploring Eleuthera

2008-04-24T09:08:00.021-04:00

Another still day, this time with barely a whisper of wind.

As we motored to Eleuthera (an island even longer than Long Island - go figure), we passed a cruise ship shuttling passengers back and forth to the nearby resort. We knew we were leaving the southern Bahamas behind and entering the central islands, because cruise ships are not seen further south.

At the end of the day, we pulled into our first marina since entering the Bahamas in Bimini; the next anchorage was too far away to reach before dark. But it was no big deal. The showers were weak, the laundry had only one dryer working, but the worst was the proliferation of the no-see-ums. The boat was so hot that we escaped onto chairs on the dock where there was a slight breeze. We endured the biting and itching until the sun set. As the boat cooled down, we draped all of our hatches with screening material enabling us to pass a comfortable night.

Just as we finished anchoring the next day, we were immediately informed by a cruiser in a passing dinghy that Happy Hour was starting, so we grabbed something to share and headed out to meet and greet and watch the sunset!

The setting was perfect - all gathered under the gazebo of a defunct restaurant. Of course, getting up there was tricky - we had to walk over the rocks in shallow water and hoist ourselves up a rickety ladder. It's a sight to see all of these retirees working it out in different ways.

The next day, we headed over to Rose's home and restaurant (notice the floor of sand) on the ocean side for a home cooked Bahamian meal with Sandy and Tom Stefanic (Anania) of the Nyack Boat Club who have been our mentors throughout this trip south. Rose picked us up in her small, rickety car, and as she cooked, we walked along the beach below her house. Afterwards, she regaled us with the story of how she ended up living in the house as a widow and making do with her entrepreneurial skills.

As the inevitable cold front arrived the next day, we rented a car. See Lou waving next to the mileage signs? (Remember to look on the wrong side of the car! Bahamians drive on the left.)

We saw Surfers' Beach where we watched 2 boys and a girl trying hard to catch a wave in very windy and rough conditions while their parents watched from a covered beach platform.

Another wonderful sight was the Glass Window (Winslow Homer painted a famous picture here) named after the narrowest part of the island. Here you can see the ocean on one side (enlarge the picture to see the breaking waves) and the calm bay on the other. We crossed a bridge traversing this spot where lives have been lost by crashing waves. You could see sections of the bridge where the force of hurricane winds had separated the concrete from the pinions/posts. Such drama here on this small spot.

Upon leaving, we actually had a series of real sailing days doing about 6 to 10 knots (When we passed through Current Cut, aptly names due to the swift current between 2 islands.). Unfortunately, I broke out with a case of hives due to inadvertantly taking acitaminaphen (it was one of several medications in a cold pill) which I am allergic to. Other than itching, swelling and turning red, it was gone within a couple of hours; but it did give me a fright.

We are on our way to two islands at the tip of 'Lutra (as the natives call it) for sights very different from what we have been seeing.

Conception and Cat

2008-04-10T21:42:00.007-04:00

We had a calm voyage leaving Long Island on our way to Conception Cay. The water was so still, it was like glass without even a ripple. Lou and Tony busied themselves taking pictures of the numerous starfish we passed as we traveled; the water was so clear, we could see to the bottom. The air was so still, that visibility was limited; not foggy, but, in Lou's words, "The atmosphere had a palpable quality to it." Bottom line: it was a uniquely stunning trip. Conception Cay is a Bahamian park, uninhabited, and visitors are prohibited from leaving or taking anything found. The north end is so narrow that you can walk from the west side to the east (the Atlantic) in about 30 steps. The interior of the island is largely mangrove lakes and creeks. We took the dinghy there to see large turtles, but due to very shallow

water, didn't explore enough to see them. A beautiful trip, nevertheless. Snorkeling proved to be dissapointing despite numerous coral heads and large reefs since they are dying and few fish appeared. Will the park rules bring back the reefs, and if so, how long will it take? We would have loved to have stayed another day, but a severe cold front was coming, and we went in search of better protection from Cat Cay, a day's sail away. We did manage to put up the sails for a while, and even the spinnaker,the colorful, billowy sail you see on boats, got some use today! Before the front hit, we managed to take a walk up to the highest point on the island to see the Hermitage, the last home of Father Jerome, the beloved priest and architect of Bahamian churches. As the day wore on, the winds increased until we were rocking back and forth so hard that we could hear all of the dishes, pots and pans, and provisions slamming into the stowage walls. Tony and I had to take pills for motion sickness and we were all asleep by 9:00. (It's said that 8:30 is the cruisers' midnight.) Tony and Marla left from Cat Cay leaving Lou and me alone again - time to catch up on chores and making future plans for the eventual trip home in a few weeks.

Next stop is Eleuthera, one of the largest Islands in the Bahamas.

Lots to Do and See on Long Island

2008-04-10T20:35:00.018-04:00

What? Long Island? Are we home already? No, it's Long Island in the Bahamas! It's 75 miles long, though only a few miles wide in some places. While we waited out a cold front (cooler temperatures, high winds and a rough sea state making it difficult, uncomfortable and dangerous to travel) - we rented a car with our friends, Tony and Marla who returned once again to sail with us. Here are a few sights we traveled to: The Salt Pond Caves: Located in the town of Salt Pond, along the coast, and hidden between a house and a gas station,we explored three chambers, each one distinct and amazing in it's own way. The first contained skylights with intertwined vines growing from the earth into the cave; the second was open to the sky due to a previous collapse; and the third was totally dark and contained some new and old stalagtites and stalagmites (and bats!).

Dean's Blue Hole: The deepest in the world dropping to 663 feet. This place was spectacular, protected on one side and open to the ocean on the other. As we traveled up and down Queen's 'Highway' (The main drag that flows north to south through the island), we passed enumerable churches, mainly Baptist, Catholic and Anglican. Here is St Mary's, the first Long Island Church, along with a Catholic Church built in the 20's by Father Jerome, an influential British architect and priest whose numerous churches are found through the island and beyond. Occasionally, we saw domestic sheep and goats romping alongside the houses. When Lou spotted mutton on the menu at Harbour Rest, Lou had to have it. It came prepared in a delicious sauce, and we ended the meal with Guava Duff: dense bread slathered with guava jelly and covered with a creamy sauce. Very tasty, very Bahamian, very satisfying. The Long Island Library, Museum, and Community Center:

The library is upstairs, and the Center in the back. Three rooms in the museum gave a beautifully displayed overview of the history and culture of the island which were elaborated on by a museum docent. This endeavor was developed by a group of diverse and talented Long Island natives. On the way back to return the car, we stopped at Max's Conch Rest for fresh conch salad (yum!)and wifi! This was one of very few places for us to check email and I couldn't update the blog due to very little time left with the car rental. While there, we met another cruising couple who had a larger version of the boat we have and the next day we visited them for a tour. Their boat is 10 cubic feet larger and is more like a home afloat for their live-aboard experience. When we weren't driving, we walked over to the other side of the island, the Atlantic Ocean side. Several of the Bahamian islands are further east bordering the ocean rather the Sound, and that is the course we will be taking in the next few weeks. We climbed enormous rocks jutting out from the beach, swam in a protected area, and snorkeled a shallow reef. Marla sat for hours watercoloring; she is getting to be quite good, making great progress from the days motoring down the intracoastal waterway. Here are a couple of pictures of the few birds we have seen on any of the islands. The ubiquitous plastic flotsam and jetsum, too, are always there as we beachcomb. (We were recently told that years ago the eggs were taken to ward off hunger and it's taking years for them to return - fact or fiction?) Along with the multicolored plastic washed ashore, there are always the coconuts. An unusual sight - a new growth out of a coconut seed! The night before leaving, we met our friends from Renaissance, Lynn and Al, who we had traveled with in the Exumas. They were now anchored on the other side of the island while Lynn's son and companion visited, and were able to meet with us while they were in a rental car. Here we all are at the bar of Parrots of the Carribean. During our weeklong stay in the Thompson's Bay anchorage, we spent time with our French-Canadian friends from Ahora, Patrick and Catherine and their two year old, Rupert. We are sorry to leave them as they wait for the arrival of Patrick's parents. This morning we are on our way north to a new island...not sure which one -depends on the wind and the seas and the whimsy of the captain. Don't forget, we would love to hear from you; click on the word Comments at the bottom of this post and send us a public message! (...and remember that you can click on the pictures to enlarge them.)

George Town Fun

2008-04-10T15:49:00.010-04:00

Here we are at last...I've finally been able to update the blog with another post; this time, our fun in George Town. This is the final winter resting place for many cruisers to the Bahamas. It is located in the southern Exuma island chain on the largest island in the Bahamas, Great Exuma. The town of George Town has an internet grocery store where you can use your laptop for $5.00 daily and have an ice cream pop or buy a box of corn flakes. You can get freshly made bread from Mom's van, get gas @ $5.00+gallon and water (free, here, but you have to fill your jugs in your dinghy and lug them back to your boat). Two big events in the winter/spring draw cruisers here. The first is the Cruisers' Regatta (races along with fun activitires-see the cruisers parade to left), and the second is the Exuma Family Regatta. In addition, over the years, the cruisers have developed a network of communication and daily activities which rival any adult day camp. The Cruisers' Net is broadcast every morning on the VHF(Ship to Shore) radio. After a synopsis of the local weather, the local businesses advertise any new events or services; next, announcements are made about the regatta. Following that, a Community Forum allows anyone to make announcements relevant to the cruising community; and finally, Boaters' General gives everyone the opportunity to advertise any needs or wants. For example, through the Net, we were able to upgrade to a bigger outboard motor for our slow dinghy, network with other boaters regarding electrical problems, give away an old charger we no longer wanted, attend some seminars about weather and racing, enter the T-shirt design contest, and so on. Activities here are held on Stocking Island which faces 5 mile long Elizabeth Harbor along George Town, and are limited only to the cruisers' imagination and willingness to organize them. Since the cruising community has many retirees, their experience and knowledge is used to benefit other boaters. Some examples are Rockin' Ron and his wife Karen who throw a weekly Rock n' Roll dance; a seminar on boating insurance given by the owner of Tabby Cat, an insurance agent, and daily yoga and pilates 'classes'. In addition, one can learn bridge, basket weaving, exchange videos, get together for a musical jam session, learn basket weaving using local plant fronds, play bridge, golf, poker (Texas hold 'em) softball, tennis...and that doesn't include the Regatta activities! We attended the opening festivities for regatta: a juried pet parade where cruisers dressed themselves and their pets, a cat walk replete with painted back drop, lights, and masked, costumed cruisers dancing to music, skits written and performed the boaters; and finally, dancing under the stars on the beach to rock n' roll. These are examples of a few of the catwalks.

We also signed up for the race around Stocking Island and came in 3rd (only 2 seconds after the 2nd place!) In addition, Lou submitted a water color design for the t-shirt contest for 2009, and came in third. Here is the design (which I think is fabulous), and will make up t-shirts when we get home. Justine and Damien, my kids, came down for a week with us. Here is Stocking Island while taking a walk with Lou and Justine followed by Justine next to a conch salad stand on Volleyball Beach. Both of them were intent on getting tans. Damien had a unique way of facing the sun.

I can't believe we were here for over 25 days (we came and went, then returned), and we were really ready to leave.

Next stop: Long Island (in the Bahamas, silly!)

Traveling Towards George Town

2008-02-20T10:42:00.035-05:00

So, here we are at last...George Town. Thanks to all who have been checking in for an update, and sorry that it has taken so long. As we expected, we've had just about no access to computers since we have been stopping at islands with no service or inhabitants, but we now have an internet store where you can use your laptop for $5.00 daily, get your computer fixed by the owner, Julius, and even have an ice cream pop or buy a box of corn flakes. We've had so many adventures since crossing the Gulf Stream with Lou's friend Peter and his girlfriend, Nancy. Here is an update from Florida to Georgetown: The Crossing: The day before Peter and Nancy arrived, we were given a ride to the supermarket by Skip and Lydia of Flying Pig who we met at the anchorage in Miami. We picked up red onions which we can't live without and O'Douhl's beer for Peter. On the way to the "staging area" (where you get ready to leave), we ran aground and had to hail Sea Tow to haul us off. Just as we got free, we saw a long line of sailboats heading in a different direction. A veteran cruiser, Bob of Cygnet, advised us to follow them to Biscayne Bay where it would be calmer, and the next morning before dawn we followed 2 catamarans out of the channel toward the Gulf. We motorsailed along with 22 other boats on a beautiful sunny day. (Everyone had been waiting for the right weather window.) Most of them went on to Nassau for an overnight crossing, but we headed into Bimini and pulled into a marina (only $25.00/day) for facilities and easy exploring. Lou went to customs and immigration while we waited aboard. That night we toasted with a saved bottle of champagne to the successful and easy crossing! (thanks to Lou's exceptional navigational abilities.) Bimini: We rented a golf cart to explore Bimini. Along the way, we stopped at a beach stand (the only one on the island) for freshly made conch salad and grilled conch made by Sherri and her husband. Conch is the culinary mainstay of the Bahamas and is used in everything. You can find it everywhere you go, from small shells to the queens which are the best. At sundown, the cruisers often blow their conch (Lou cut off the tip and dug out a hole and is getting pretty good. The sound is like a ram's horn.) and you can sometimes hear them answering one another in different tones from various boats. The salad was delicious, but we had to wait a while for them to go get the conch for preparation, so we walked along the beach with their little boy. The Berry Islands: We had our first overnight passage and took 3 hour shifts alternating with Peter and Nancy. We prepared food in advance for us to nibble on overnight and had a brisk sail averaging 20 kts. The stars were lovely, and we passed only a few freighters, easy to see in the dark from far away. The morning was clear, warm, sunny and inviting for exploration, so we went ashore for a walk and had an impromptu snack on the beach. PIC Nassau: Our sail into Nassau was 20+ winds heeled way over to the toe rails. It was thrilling to be sailing once again, and we could hardly remember all of those days motoring down the ICW. We crossed the Tongue of the Ocean where the depths are so great that the depth sounder no longer registers. Unfortunately, when we needed to use the engine, it suddenly died; although Lou bled it along with Nancy's able assistance (I get queasy down below and she has a cast iron stomach), we couldn't get started and had to anchor under sail into the Nassau harbor. Once again, Lou's skills, both netoworking and sailing, got us safely anchored just inside the harbor where the Haitian work boats pick up merchandise to bring back home. Another sailboat was anchored nearby with engine problems as well. He suggested bleeding the engine once again, and this time it worked! Turns out that all of the heeling over while sailing had caused an air lock. The next day we reanchored across from the Atlantis on Paradise Island and used it as a base for fun acitivities. One day we motored to a nearby island for swimming and walking and the guys spotted a huge ray near shore as well as an octopus spurting ink and going after prey. Alas, we had to say goodbye to Peter and Nancy who headed back to the snow in Wisconsin. This was Nancy's first real sailing trip and she certainly had a varied experience. She was also a definite asset, as Peter was, helping with sailing, the overnight, in the galley, and lots of fun for Lou to play with. Aarghh! After they left, we hooked up with Fred, our Nyack boat neighbor aboard North Star and Mark, his cruising buddy on Ibis. During sundowners on our boat (This is a cruising tradition. Everyone supplies a snack and brings their own drinks to make it easy for the host.), we made arrangements to travel towards George Town together along with their friends Al and Lynn on Renaissance. They say things come in threes and we got our share of that the next day First, we got hit by a driving rain in our dinghy coming back from doing laundry. We were like wet rats when we arrived at the boat, but the laundry was dry due to Lou's foresight. (He offered to buy a large garbage bag from the marina to wrap the laundry in.) Somehow while boarding the boat in the rain, my eye glasses broke. Luckily, I had a spare pair which I've been using ever since. Then, that afternoon, during the storm, a neighboring boat alerted us that our anchor was dragging, so we had to reanchor. Finally, our dinghy somehow came loose, and we had to pick up the anchor once again to retrieve it. Well, that was three, so I knew it would end there, but it didn't stop us from having a sleepless night during the high winds and rain fearful that we would drag again. Next day, we set off to see iguanas... Allan's Cay: This island (cay is pronounced key) is a protected area for the Bahamian rock iguanas which are only found in the Bahamas. (makes sense doesn't it?) When you arrive, they see you coming and rush out to get fed. They seldom bite, and people feed them by hand though it is not recommended. We kept our distance, and had a lovely walk along the beach. Here is a picture of sea life through the water - a couple of conch shells and starfish. Amazing to see how clear it is!

Norman's Cay: We hooked up with Fred, Mark, Lynn and Al here and had a busy time dinghying to a sunken plane left over from the drug running days on the island, practicing climbing into the dinghy from the water (I couldn't, so Lou constructed a step made out of a metal rod), and beach combing between islands during low tide. Warderick Wells and the Exuma Land and Sea Park: This park was established to protect and maintain the coral reefs and flora and fauna of the Bahamas while furthering research. It is the first island in the Exumas Island chain and consists of a number of islands. They control the number of boats by requiring a reservation for a mooring. During our stay, we walked to BooBoo Hill on one of the many cleared trails (volunteers and rangers do the work), did snorkeling in a fast current (Fred had to tow us back to our dinghy since we were drifting off course), and attended Happy Hour on the beach complete with bonfire. Compass Cay: After a lovely sail doing 5 to 6 kts, we walked along a shallow creek leading out to Exuma Sound. The Exuma Islands are bordered on the west by the Bahamian Banks, a shallow area with depths averaging about 15 feet. On the east lies Exuma Sound which leads eventually to the Atlantic Ocean. The western side of the islands is calm, quiet and shallow while the east is often wild and windy with depths of over a thousand feet. The beach we walked along was full of flotsam and jetsum, common on beaches bordering the sound, and it is fascinating to see the junk that washes ashore. In addition, we are enjoying developing a collection of interesting shells, coral, and beans. Around the corner we explored Rachel's Bubble Bath, an area where the waves of the sound break over the limestone rocks creating bubbles in a clear, calm pool. Staniel Cay: Our early morning departure for this island (usually after listening to the 6:30 a.m. weather forecast), netted a large mahi for Al who enjoys fishing as he sails along the Sound. (Several days later, Lynn graciously invited us all over for fish chowder.) After a walk to the grocery store and airport, we saw 2 huge stingrays and a nurseshark doing circles around the town dock waiting for the fishing boats to come in. Later, word got out that a boat was bringing in a hammerhead shark. Unlike the nurse shark which is harmless, the hammerhead is a predator and the locals go after them with spears when they are sighted. Lou took the following pictures of it being taken ashore and gutted. The next day, we went snorkeling through a rock grotto full of stunning fish which surrounded us when we shook out crumbs we brought in a ziplock bag.One morning, we went over to a nearby bay to feed the pigs. Pigs? Yes, pigs. Amazingly, there a few pigs that live on the island and are kept healthy and fat by cruisers who come by with veggies and snacks. As if that wasn't enough, we rode our dinghies over to a nearby island over a mile away, for the walk from hell (as Lynn put it) up and down the limestone cliffs, through the sand, rocks and overgrowth along the sound.

Little Farmer's Cay: We came here for the Farmers' Cay First Friday in February Festival, or 5Fs. People come from surrounding islands as far as Nassau to participate in or watch the regatta. The cruisers organized a flea market, contests, and a scavenger hunt for the kids. We ate alot of native food: macaroni and cheese, ribs, fried fish, cole slaw and had a local drink that Lou said looked like windex, but packed a wallop. Super Bowl Sunday we headed to a small marina, Farmer's Cay Yacht Club, and watched the Giants upset the Patriots in the last minute of the game. Cave Cay: During our happy hour on the beach with cruisers from the anchorage, we watched the sunset and witnessed a Green Flash, a phenomenon seen in the Bahamas when the sun disappears along the horizon. The crowd of cruisers cheered in excitement though the flash is so short that you can easily miss it. Next stop - Georgetown - our destination for a while where we did laundry, filled up with water and fuel, bought groceries at the local supermarket which gets deliveries from Nassau and the States, and fixed our new outboard motor...

Waiting in Florida

2008-01-10T11:02:00.000-05:00

One of the tenets of sailing is to never have a deadline. Too many variables need to come together to stay safe while having a good sail. For example, wind direction and strength, tides, currents, rain...you get it. So we never had an actual date for crossing to the Bahamas. But, it's been over 3 months since we left in September, and some of the reasons other than weather, have been friends and family, and health issues.

As we travelled south, we kept in touch with Lou's first cousin, Lainie, (on his mother's side) who lives in Boca Raton. Lainie understood our need to provision the boat for food during the months we would be out of the states. Since the Bahamas is actually composed of 700 islands, not all of them have inhabitants, some of them have very small communities with only a few stores, and, we have learned that if you can get food, it's pretty pricey since it has to be shipped in by boat or plane. Even water for the boat will come at a cost. The islands are not suitable for agriculture, and very little is grown there. So, Lainie invited us to stay with her and while we visited we were able to shop. She even lent us her car to go to Costco, Wal-Mart, and Publix, the local supermarket. (I love this market. The customer really is treated valuably.) Here is only one shopping jaunt we made over the course of several weeks. Can you believe we found room in the boat to stow it? (Thanks again to Lainie who stored several bags of stuff for us in her garage.)

As if that weren't all,Lainie made arrangements with her friends, Elaine and Bob Born for us to leave Ripple Effect at their dock in Jupiter. The Borns no longer have a boat and were only too happy to have the neighbors think they were sailing again. But we benefitted from the experience in more than one way - the Borns turned out to be such gracious and warm people that we felt we had made new friends. Here is a picture of Elaine on the left and Lainie on the right.

(Note the beard Lou grew. He looked great, but shaved it off for an appointment with a dermatologist.) After a few days with Lainie, our friends Carol and Cliff Hillman, picked us up to spend a few days with them in Boynton Beach. We had intended on renting a car, but the holidays made it very difficult, so the Hillmans generously chauffered us around to doctors and stores; Carol took me to her hairstylist, Grace, who gave me a wonderful short cut for my trip south; I even found a great spa to have a facial!

Once shore leave was over and we returned to the boat, we traveled down to North Palm Beach where Lou contacted Carol Schein, first cousin to Lou on his father's side. Lou doesn't see Carol very often, and they enjoyed reminiscing about their childhood going boating with their parents. I met Carol only once before at her grandson's bar mitzvah, and I was so impressed with the closeness of her family and their warmth and interest in me. This visit was no different.

While in North Palm, our friend Cliff Milo called. Cliff has an apartment within walking distance of our marina. He and his partner, Arthur, are enduring the cold of New York and the Cape, down with colds, and they offered to have us stay in the North Palm apartment. This is not just any apartment. They have renovated and decorated so that they now have a stunning deluxe apartment which we were delighted to use during the worst cold front Florida has seen in many years. In fact, we were lucky to be able to take advantage of this opportunity since the apartment is for sale (any takers?).

Our next stop was an anchorage off the IntraCoastal Waterway between Palm Beach which is a barrier island and Port of Palm Beach, the area originally housing the workers for the rich of Palm Beach. Our plan was to rent a car to

visit doctors: a follow up visit to Lou's dermatolgist, a podiatrist and hand specialist for me
do the final food shopping (mostly perishables) before heading out to the Bahamas (it took two dinghy rides to bring all of the bags)
and register the new inflatable dinghy we were forced to buy after ours developed a huge hole from the floor separating from the air tubes. Thank goodness Lou discovered it before we got into the water! That would have been a wet surprise!

To make the occasion more enjoyable than two days of unending chores, Cliff and Carol invited us to dinner and overnight stay, so we were able to see them again replete with martinis and Carol's legendary homemade soup, do a final wash before the passage, and take a last warm, luxurious shower before having to conserve water aboard for the cruise ahead.

What wonderful, gracious friends and family we have! We are indebted to them for their support and assistance.

Finally, we arrived today in Fort Lauderdale after our first sail in the ocean in over two months. Peter and Nancy will meet us tomorrow, and if the weather holds up, we will make an early start across the Gulf to Bimini. To keep in touch, we will use calling cards and Skype, a voice interactive program on the internet. If you sign up for it, too, it can be very low cost: only $3 a month. Go to Skype.com for a free download and demo call. Our cell phones won't work, but I'll try to update the blog as is possible; send comments! We would love to hear from you. (Unfortunately, I haven't found a way to reply to your messages, only publish them.)

Next stop, Bahamas...

What
would we do without such wonderful friends and family? We are indebted to them for their support and assistance.

Traveling Down the ICW

2008-01-01T13:44:00.000-05:00

The Great Dismal Swamp in Virginia (see a previous post), was the beginning of the Intra Coastal Waterway, or ICW, which many cruisers take south to Florida. It is slow due to shallow depths and restricted bridge openings causing us to motor most of the way; but it has been interesting and in many parts, beautiful to see. As we've been traveling down, we've passed through sounds, bays, rivers, and numerous creeks. It is mind boggling to see the interconnected bodies of water flowing from one to another. And the names of the waterways and islands are fascinating, too: Runaway Slave Creek, Point No Point, Clubfoot Creek, Frying Pan Shoal, Sleepy Creek, Mosquito Creek, Turn Again Bay, Lettuce Lake... When we crossed the border into South Carolina, the scenery changed to what we dubbed as Condo Land replete with miles of golf courses, but the southern part of the state became more natural; in Georgia, we passed mile after mile of unspoiled salt marshes. Now that we are in Florida, we have to contend with speeding power boats, numerous request bridges and condominiums. Contrast the two pictures here - the Georgian salt marshes and the first development of condos as soon as we crossed into the state of Florida.

Every boater's fear is running aground on the ICW. Many parts of it are dredged and you can find only 1 to three feet of water out of the channel. Consequently, we watch our depth sounders religiously. Getting distracted for a minute can be death and dismemberment (Lou's words for those who know him). One day, after coming upon a grounded boat and trying unsuccessfully to help free it from the sand bar it was on, we ended up grounding ourselves at the end of the day! How did we do it? Lou and I were so busy discussing the inner workings of the boat (can you believe I am discussing this!) that we took a wrong turn off of the ICW. Low tide didn't help. We couldn't have chosen a better time or place to run aground, however. Our creek was deserted and flanked by trees on the one side and the golden reeds of the salt marshes on the other. So, we anchored; Lou used a special anchor and technique, kedging off, to free us as the tide came in. As night fell, we were surrounded by darkness and the stars above - no lights visible anywhere! The next morning, we were free and headed out into the sunshine. We had been lucky enough to be able to turn lemons into lemonade, and no one was about to see us in our predicament! Stopping along the ICW whether we anchor in the middle of nowhere, pull into the harbor of a city, or stop in a recognized anchorage, brings treats and delights. Here are shots from the former Flagler Hotel, now a college, in St. Augustine; a popular sandy island where we successfully flew our kite!; and, an anchorage nowhere special.

Well, we have made it down this far - today we are in North Palm Beach and have only 9 days left before meeting Peter Packer, another of Lou's former boat buddies who will be joining us in the passage over to the Bahamas...We hope the new year will be fun, adventurous and healthy for all of you reading this.

Traveling Companions

2007-12-15T13:51:00.001-05:00

Cumberland Island is the largest and last barrier island along the Georgia coast. Although it was once owned by wealthy land owners including Carnegie, (here are the ruins of the Carnegie Dungenous mansion), today it is part of the US National Seashore. Since it is largely uninhabited, wildlife has flourished. As we approached the island by boat, we saw horses running along the shore - what a beautiful and exciting sight! Then, as I took a hike later on, I saw an armadillo, a group of turkeys, and horses grazing on the grounds. What a thrill to walk among them knowing they were wild and free. Later on, during the walk back to Lou who was waiting for me at the park rangers' hut, I stopped short when a beautiful pony was standing right on he path. He wasn't moving, so I had to - through the brambles. He looked gentle, but I wasn't taking any chances. I've mentioned the dolphins (some call them porpoises - what's the difference?) that we spy almost everywhere, but we have other temporary companions while traveling. The pelicans have kept us company since the Chesapeake. They are my favorite bird, so clumsy and comical, but graceful when they fly a few inches above the water. And you should see them dive for fish! They're like dive bombers crashing into the water head first. Grebes, a cormorant type bird, have also been diving and emerging for several states now; but they dive from the water, not the sky. Of course, the ever present egrets, herons and other shore birds continue to follow us. While we were out in the ocean off the Jersey coast back in late September, one day we were visited by Monarch butterflies following us almost the entire day, but curiously, they never landed on the boat to rest! Our smallest companions came in the guise of an infestation of fruit flies; we finally eliminated them by following up on a sailor's suggestion to put out apple cider vinegar. It attracted them and solved the problem. Who knows what's next... PS. It's hard to take close ups of animals, especially birds, so don't forget you can click on the pictures to see them better.

Giving Thanks Away from Home

2007-12-02T22:16:00.001-05:00

We might have been lonely and sad this Thanksgiving if it hadn't been for 270 other southbound cruisers meeting at St. Mary's, Georgia.

Several years ago, a few sail boats took refuge from a storm in St. Mary's a few days before Thanksgiving, and asked where they could get a holiday meal. Several townspeople offered to cook a turkey and ham if the cruisers brought the fixin's. And so, a yearly event was established at Seagal's, the local hotel restuarant. Each year the number of boats has grown, and this year topped 100.

What a feast we had; We started off with roasted oysters provided by the restaurant. Here are pictures of Gerry, former mayor of St. Mary's and owner of the hotel, cleaning, steaming and serving the oysters for hungry cruisers. The whole in the middle of the table is for the oyster shells after we opened them. Three rows of tables were laden with every imaginable dish for the holiday. What was more surprising, was the quality of the food. I'm realizing more and more that cruisers really care about food and know how to cook. Some cruisers even brought their own holiday tablecloths, placemats, napkins and decorations.

The event was planned by a small group of cruisers and townies; to make things operate smoothly, every morning at 9:00 a.m. a few days before the holiday, we listened to a broadcast of the 'Turkey Net' (for network) over our VHF radios. Announcements were made followed by questions and then we signed up for such things as a ride to the supermarket, laundry, or West Marine store. Two days before Thanksgiving, and again on Saturday night, a happy hour was planned on the restaurant patio with cruisers bringing appetizers thus giving us all an opportunity to meet and network with people we had already met along the way as well as new friends. It's all part of the adventure of cruising!And I thought I would be bored...

The day we left, we headed for Florida, only five miles away.

Celebrating my Birthday on Jekyll Island

2007-12-01T19:48:00.000-05:00

About a month ago, I asked Lou to connect the electric head (toilet) for my birthday. He had turned it off because it drew too much battery power, but I had never gotten a chance to use it. By today, I had forgotten my request. In the morning, after having tea served to me in bed, I went to wash up and discovered, much to my surprise, the lever for the head was missing. Lou had hooked up the electric connection! I don't ask for much, but this was a delightful present.

By the way, an interesting fact: the term 'head' comes from the old days when sailors would have to go over the side to relieve themselves. They would go to the bow of the boat where the figurehead and headsails were. Thus the phrase"going to the head" was coined.

To celebrate my birthday, we anchored at Jekyll Island, Georgia, which is one of the barrier islands close to the Florida border. The island is so flat that many use bikes to explore the island, and we were no different. Our cloudy, chilly day turned bright, warm and sunny, lighting up this Golden Isle, named for the beautiful yellow color of the salt marsh reeds. The ride, along paved bike paths, was spectacular as we passed woodlands as beautiful as a botanical garden, inland salt marshes and marsh hammocks, beaches and the ocean. We stopped twice; once to walk along the white sand beach to dramatically snarled tree trunks and limbs of upturned trees partially buried in the sand. So, sorry - I forgot my camera and don't have a picture. While we walked along the beach, dolphins were playing (or feeding?) about 20 feet off the beach, and one sped towards me so fast I thought it would land on the beach. "He did that for my birthday", I told Lou.

On the way back to our anchorage, we stopped along the Atlantic side to see the surf and tide breaking along the bottom of the steps and the sand dunes above. It was late in the day, dusk beginning, and the light took on its crepuscular glow.

Later, after showers, we biked back to a grand mansion once the largest home on the island called Crane "Cottage" which was built for Crane of plumbing supplies fame. We had dinner by the light of a fireplace. Biking there and back in the dark, we rode along brightly lit displays of holiday decorations making it appear like a fantasyland. The most spectacular were the white lights strung up and along the trunks and limbs of the live oak trees embracing the road from both sides.

2007-11-23T12:02:00.000-05:00

At first, we weren't sure if we wanted to go to Savannah. It was 16 miles out of our way - that's 3 hours since we motor 5 miles an hour! We tried to get into a marina along the way, so we could take a taxi or bus there, but it was booked for 3 days. Finally, I said to Lou, it was crazy to be so close and not go, so off we went. After traveling under cloudy, cold and drizzly skies, we were lucky enough to get space at the municipal dock right in the heart of town. We thought we would have to tie up on our own, but were greeted by the skippers of 3 other sailboats who promptly invited us to join them at lunch! We had just eaten, so we ended up taking a trolley tour of the city and learned some fascinating things: In the 70s, Savannah was a ghetto with no money and interest in restoration. Then, the book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil came out followed by the movie (the picture above is the home of the main character who is tried for murder); that changed everything. People became interested in the city, began buying up cheap property, and kindled interest in restoring the beautiful buildings. Here is the restored reform Jewish temple (yes, that's right!) which was established back in the 1700s by a small group of Sephardic Jews from Portugal and Spain, although it was not originally reform. We toured the sanctuary with a former president of the congregation hailing from Brooklyn, NY several decades ago. We loved this town. It was originally planned as a grid system centuries ago is very easy to get around, and every few blocks opens onto a square park. The fountain here is in the largest, Forsyth Park. It's very cosmopolitan, and, as you can see, lush everywhere you look, but still a little rough around the edges. Charleston was gorgeous, but manicured, and perhaps in Lou's words, 'self-conscious'. Savannah's historic district, in contrast, felt comfortable and easy going. The next day after returning to the boat from our exploration of the town, we discovered Jim and Beth of Madcap (cruisers always refer to boat names when mentioning people) who we had previously met in Beaufort. They were standing next to another couple who we assumed they knew. We invited them all for drinks, and it turned out that they didn't know each other after all, but were sailors, too! While we were chatting, Margaret and Phil received a call from Dan and Marjorie, native Savannians to join them for dinner at a local Japanese restaurant, and invited us to go along! A delightful evening of serendipity, don't you think?

Next day, we left the sanctuary of Savannah for the peaceful beauty of the Georgia salt marshes along the ICW.

Meeting Fred in Beaufort, SC

2007-11-17T12:21:00.000-05:00

All along our trip, we've been talking to Fred, our Nyack neighbor who lives on his Nordic Tug, Northstar, in the Hudson during the spring and fall months when he's not cruising. Fred has done the trip to the Bahamas a number of times and has been one of Lou's gurus for this trip. So, it was with great pleasure, that we finally caught up with each other in South Carolina.

Beaufort, pronounced Byoofort, as opposed to Beaufort, North Carolina (pronounced the way it is spelled) was the quintessential southern town. Fred took us on a walk of the point to see pecan trees (we picked the nuts up off the ground and opened them to get at the delicious meat inside), live oaks covered in Spanish moss (these trees are unlike northern oak trees, but massive in size and breadth), and plantation type homes.

In the evening, we had dinner with Fred and his friend Mark, and experienced this sunset. Next stop: Savannah!

Saying Goodbye in Charleston

2007-11-16T09:11:00.000-05:00

Today Marla and Tony left us :( On their last day, Marla and I went to the Charleston Aquarium, and what a special place it was.

Overlooking the harbor, it incorporated the outside with the inside. The picture on the left shows a salt marsh complete with heron, egrets, turtles, etc. as we looked out on the harbor beyond. Tony chose, instead, to stay aboard with Lou working on repairs. Here he is up the mast working on one of the lights. (Can't figure out how

to turn the picture, though. Another thing to work on.)

Tony and Marla left us with wonderful gifts. Tony installed our new radio so we can now listen to selections from my ipod, Marla copied songs and jokes from her ipod to CDs for us; and if that wasn't enough, Tony completely restocked our bar. Of course, if they hadn't done any of that, their company would have been enough. Tony helped Lou navigate and steer (saving me the onerous job during cold mornings!), and Marla shared the task of cooking lunches and dinners giving me more time for myself. They had come as crew to go out into the ocean on overnight voyages, but we never made it due to cold temperatures, bad wind direction and strong seas. Hope they'll come back to try again.

Here we are trying to keep warm with our propane heater; when we are on shore power, we have been using our electric portable heater that Lyn Borek gave us - thanks Lyn - we love it!

Charleston is wonderful, by the way. The entire downtown is lovingly and beautifully restored and every block is a feast for the eyes. We started our exploration with a carriage ride (if you look closely, you can see Lou waving); later, Marla seridipitously found a coffee shop one holding an open mike night. Lou and Marla played backgammon while we rested our tired feet escaping the cold and listened to poetry, folk and jazz mostly by young people from the University of South Carolina.

Some interesting sights we encountered: it's full of colonial houses that have a false door that leads to a piazza, or balcony/deck on the side of the house. It's from there that you actually enter the house. Crepe myrtle trees and creeping fig are also abundant throughout the city. And, the ubiquitous palmetto palm trees protected the city from invasion from the British: they were used to create a 'fort' and when the British fired cannons, they became imbedded in the soft 'trunks' without doing damage. Thus, the palmetto tree on the state flag.

We're having fun eating here, too; we tried fried green tomatoes, bisquits with sausage gravy, creamed corn, catfish, shrimp with grits, and of course, fried chicken. Looking forward to trying ho cake. (What IS that?)

Note: Just learned from our friend, Bob Fine, that if you click on the word 'comments' at the bottom of each post, even if it has a zero in front of it, it will send you to a window where you can leave a message for us. Be forewarned, though, I may publish it!

Waiting out Hurricane Noel

2007-11-14T23:05:00.000-05:00

Right now, Lou,Tony, Marla and I are waiting out hurricane Noel in a dredged basin in the Camp LeJeune Marine Base in southern North Carolina. Seven other boats are here, mostly sailboats and we know a few from the New Bern Gam. We chose this basin for its safety, but it has turned out to be a lovely and interesting spot as well despite the incessant winds. We are surrounded by marshland and can see occasional boats traveling down the ICW. Contrasted with that are the sounds of machine guns, cannons and Osprey(?) helicopters (the type that can change their wings to fly like an airplane)from the training grounds. Nearby, is an old, rusted tanker. Its bow has a gun mounted to the top and opens to allow tanks to come out. Lou and I went ashore and met a Phillapino couple fishing for mullet with lines and nets; they had caught 19 of them before leaving. They were curious about the sailboats and wondered what they were used for. The idea of recreational cruising was strange to them.

On shore were piles of large oyster shells we assumed were from the dredging. Shoaling is a constant problem along the waterways, as you can imagine, and we were able to see a dredging boat in the distance spewing out the water in a long graceful stream it had sucked out of the channel bed.

Last night was a magnificent sunset; the four of us were busy taking 'art' pictures followed by dinner and rummikub (thanks Carol and Cliff!). I asked myself, "Whatever happened to red sky at night, sailors' delight with a hurricane brewing?" Well, during the night, the wind started up and we all slept poorly, but the morning brought sun. I guess the sailors ditty has it right. The next day was sunny, but very windy. We kept listening to the forecast awaiting the worst, but it never came; the most we got was strong wind gusts which rattled, shook, and turned the boat. Apparently, there is another sailors' ditty about the wind that Lou taught me that explained it all:

Wind before Rain,

You'll soon sail again;

Rain before Wind,

Topsails lowered,

and halyards mind.

They were right again; we were sailing down the ICW the next day, sun shining despite a very cold morning.

New Bern and the Southbound Cruisers Rendezvous

2007-11-06T15:52:00.000-05:00

New Bern, named by a Swiss, is not technically on our trip south, but it was an opportunity to meet, network and learn about the cruisers' life at the Southbound Cruisers Rendezvous or 'gam' (get together). We anchored in the Trent River and spent 6 days going ashore with our dinghy to explore, greet and meet, and, as Tony said, go to school.

Tony and his wife Marla came to join us into Florida. In preparation for their arrival, I cleaned the boat thoroughly and thought to myself while scrubbing the floor of the head (bathroom), I don't even do this at home! Next day, I paid for it - my sciatica returned. It's a sure consequence of cleaning, so Lou will just have to do it from now on!

Anyway, the four of us celebrated Marla's birthday at a seafood restaurant with a wonderful sparkling chardonnay, Barefoot Bubbly. The next day we took a tour of the Tryon Palace which was the first governor's mansion, and a trolley ride of the New Bern historic homes and buildings.

At the Gam, we attended presentations by experienced cruisers on topics such as Suddenly Alone (what to do in the event that your partner is incapaciated), Forecasting Weather, When Mars and Venus Go Cruising, and Real World Advice for Beginning Cruisers. The presentations were professional and everyone was friendly and helpful. On the last night, we celebrated with a fried chicken dinner and were entertained by a Barbershop Quartet of fellow cruisers.

One surprise at coming to New Bern, was getting in touch with old friends of Lou's, David and Diana Sousa. The three of them hadn't been in touch since the Sousas moved down to North Carolina from Rockland County when they used to sail together 25 years ago. Of course, everyone still looked the same! During our stay, we had a lovely dinner at their home, and they graciously offered to let me shower there which was a real treat from the confined space of the boat. Our last evening ashore they took us to the Centenary Methodist Church for a theme dinner in the basement. Everyone was dressed as monks in a darkened room lit by candles and we were entertained with medievel acapella chants.

Back on our trip south on the North Carolina Intracoastal Waterway...

Oriental

2007-11-05T12:29:00.001-05:00

Oriental is a small village on the coast of the Neuse River in North Carolina. We anchored here to escape the forecasted high winds and thunderstorms. The first night we bounded out of bed in order to close all of the hatches and portholes due to torrential rain, and today while in a marine store a squall hit - high winds and heavy rains causing huge puddles and rivers of water in the streets. But the whole thing was over within 10 minutes. Thankfully, we weren't sailing; Lou reviewed procedures in the event that we are. As you can see, the sun didn't stay in for very long. In fact, we have been told by a waitress who moved to North Carolina from Ohio, that there are rarely a series of gloomy days down here.

This charming and friendly village is arty yet centered around fishing and boating. Many people we met were transplanted northeners. The woman running the marina office, a retired principal from Patterson, NJ, explained that she fell in love with Oriental when she realized strangers were saying hello to her as she drove in her car. That, and the warmer weather and lower prices convinced her.

We decided to stay a second day due to high winds and attended a chili cook-off. Lou and I had our favorite: The Deightons chili had bacon and a secret ingredient (I swore not to tell) giving it a slightly sweet flavor. We bought a container to have later, and took a picture of the chefs.

Our third night in Oriental, we tied up at the town dock. Here is Lou next to Ripple Effect. You can see the commercial fishing boats beyond. (reminder: you can enlarge the pictures by clicking on them.)

Thanks to Lynn and Lee, my sisters who gave me a portable DVD player for my last birthday, (and friends Sally and Evan, and cousins Susan and Jordan for lending us videos) we are enjoying movies on the boat. Last night we watched TransAmerica with Hillary Duff which was an uneasy, but engrossing movie. She deserved getting an Academy nomination.

While here, Lou found a marine consignment shop and I unfolded my bike and took a ride along the coast looking at the lovely houses and stopped at the local supermarket on the way back.

On New Year's eve, the town holds a dragon parade symbolic of the Orient, and throughout the town we were surprised by dragons on porches, in stores, and even in streams where the picture above was taken.

On to the Southbound Cruisers' Rendezvous next...

The Dismal Swamp

2007-11-04T11:45:00.000-05:00

Dear Blog Readers, I had intended on publishing many more pictures and more frequently, but due to difficulties with the software despite Marla's wonderfully knowledgeable guidance, it has been spotty. So, rather than waiting longer, here is my next installment. Please send your comments (click on the comment button at the bottem of the post) and let me know if you want less description, more about us, more about the boat...whatever: Entering the Great Dismal Swamp route of the ICW was a last minute decision and as Lou says, "Like all last minute decisions, it proved to be the right one." That's Lou, for you. After the enormity and cacaphony of Norfolk, the swamp was quiet, peaceful and calm.

In 1728 a colonel brought a group of surveyors to explore the swamp, and after surviving yellow flies, chiggers and ticks, described it as "dismal" and a"horrible desert". Originally 2200 miles, over time development has eroded the area and today only 600 square miles remain thanks to legislation.

The Dismal Swamp Canal is the oldest continuously running canal in the US and the only canal with locks on the ICW. It was our first experience going through locks, and though it took forever, was fun, interesting and the time passed quickly as we chatted with the other boat owners waiting to go through with us.

The water in the canal is brown due to the tannic acid in the water from the bark of surrounding trees. Water in our faucet and head looked strangely dirty, but in fact, tasted fine and was healthy to drink as the acid prevents bacteria from growing. Further on down the canal, we encountered an enormous amount of what looked like algae but is called duck weed here. It was so thick that it appeared to be a green carpet. Things could even float on it. It had a beautiful luminescence; however, problems ensued. Several boats, including ours, got the stuff stuck in our fresh water intake thruhull. We had to stop and blow out hoses and valves. Lou finally solved the problem by shoving a wire coat hanger through the thruhull. The whole episode delayed our progress and we were hard pressed to get to an anchorage area in the swamp before the sun set. The next morning, as we took off, the sight was stunning: the early morning fog and rising sun gave a mysterious view of the swamp.

A week after traveling through the canal, we were informed that it had been temporarily closed; the dry conditions this summer and fall had caused the water level to fall too low for boats to pass through.

Leaving the Chesapeake for the ICW

2007-10-26T15:50:00.000-04:00

Our trip from Hampton in the southern Chesapeake brought us to Norfolk, Virginia with an amazing array of military vessels: mile after mile of aircraft carriers, destroyers and battleships (we think) accompanied by fighter jets and Apache helicopters (we think). As we continued, the navy ships were replaced by huge cranes for lifting and moving the containers from ships; and further on, as we approached Portsmouth, the scene changed to schooners, barges, and fishing vessels. We were agog and overwhelmed with the enormity of this larger than life industrial landscape.

Just before arriving at the turn off for the ICW or Intracoastal Waterway, we got stuck for about an hour behind a barge trying to maneuver a turn in order to pass through a drawbridge. A tug at the rear pulled backwards to act as a brake while another pulled the bow. Those barges are helpless without their mother tugs.

Finally, we got through the drawbridge and entered the ICW. Immediately, the environment changed dramatically. If you want to know how, see our next post on the Great Dismal Swamp.

Tangier Island

2007-10-20T11:23:00.000-04:00

I had been hearing about Tangier Island in the Chesapeake from Lou and Tony since their last trip there two years ago. As we approached, we could see all of the fishing sheds up on stilts since the flood waters are so high here. The island is flat as a pancake. You can almost see one end while looking from the other. The residents travel by bike and golf carts and we were fortunate enough to be given a tour in one by Mr. Parks, the 76 year old owner of the marina where we docked. As we traveled, he would stop occasionally to speak to neighbors and friends. His family is the largest on the island and he was a waterman all of his life, but finally gave it up two years ago since he was losing money. Despite the insular community, the population is declining due to economic difficulties. While exploring, we passed by the school which had been rebuilt on a higher level to prevent flooding. You could see bicycles from small to large belonging to the students inside. In the afternoon, we visited the local hardware store. Later that day, we ate dinner family style at the Chesapeake House. This family style restaurant seats you with other diners and brings out about 10 different dishes including crab cakes and clam fritters. The dishes are shared among all while you get to know your tablemates. We were lucky. We met John and Larry, two sailors from the area who were exploring the Bay for a vacation.

The Chesapeake

2007-10-15T21:28:00.000-04:00

Well, Ripple Effect is doing more motoring than sailing lately, but the weather has been great, the sights sublime, and the cruisers we are meeting are friendly and interesting. We did manage to get in two days of brisk sailing along the southern Chesapeake. Lou was in his element even when he had to crawl up to the bow in 20 mile an hour winds to repair a hole in the jib.

Our view from Delaware Bay into the Chesapeake.

Chesapeake Bay is amazing as those of you who have read Michener's book already know. But I haven't, and I've never been here so I was unprepared for the vastness yet smallness: endless miles of inlets, islands, rivers and coves. Truly a lifetime of exploring. We shared the bay mostly with cruising and fishing boats, but occasionally the big guys - barges and container ships - passed by, once close enough to give me a scare. The picure here looks like a ship but is a long barge pushed by a tug. Another interesting sight as we travel is the contrast between the traditional and the new as evidenced by the light 'houses' we come upon. We've had a few memorable stops. The Crab Deck in Kent Narrows provides a free dock if you eat there. We needed to call the bridge tender to request permission to enter the Narrows. Yeah, we are one of those boats the cars have to wait for to let pass under the drawbridge. And after Lou thanked him when we were through, he stuck his head out of the window and replied in a southern drawl, "Yu-u-u-up!" This was our introduction into Chesapeake crabs. They are steamed in a delicious seasoning and sold by the dozen or half dozen. Our table was covered in brown wrapping paper and we were given wooden mallets and a roll of paper towel to use while breaking them open. After a short lesson on the best procedure, we got pretty good at this. And boy, were they succulent - and messy. We weren't able to finish our order, so we took them to the boat and had the leftovers the next day using winch handles to crack them open. They were still wonderful.

The Chesapeake is the home of Watermen who work the waters for oysters, shrimp and crab making the area what it is.

One town we visited has been hit hard by the decline in oysters in the bay and deterioration and empty stores are seen everywhere. They are trying hard to regenerate what was once the Oyster Capital of the World by building condos and writing urban renewal grants. The local museum organizes Elderhostel trips in the Chesapeake and includes visits to oyster and crab facilities. Apparently, the trips are sold out every year.

On to Herring Bay. We anchored alone between two marinas seen off in the distance, and it was so warm we were able to go swimming.

We are struck by the hospitality of people here. Everyone is chatty, interested in us and so helpful especially in giving cruisers rides. Some local supermarkets drive you to their stores to shop and back again!

Our days are going so quickly busy with navigating, enjoying the scenery, socializing and maintaining the boat. One morning we spent 3 hours cleaning her from top to bottom. I was so exhausted I promised never to that again! I haven't even cleaned my house in about 30 years.

One morning we turned on the engine to get going, and it wouldn't start. So for 3 hours Lou tried everything he could think of - even reading the dreaded manual - and finally, thanks to tips from Tom Stefanic and Bob Fine his sailing gurus, it started up. He's not sure what did it but we haven't had problems since.

I recently read that sailing is boat maintenance in exotic places, and this trip is no different. Every week presents another challenge. But Lou is never deterred or despondent. He rolls up his sleeves and tackles the impossible.

In Deltaville we excitedly picked up our first General Delivery mail sent by our organized and dependable partner in our cruising venture, my daughter Justine. Without her we would be lost! Got alot of exercise walking to the post office that day, too.

A sign of a warmer climate along the walk to the post office.

Leaving New York

2007-09-28T16:30:00.000-04:00

So, we are off. After 2 months of exhausting preparations for our trip south, we finally left New York. Two months turned out not to be not very much time after all. We've rented the house to a lovely couple, Jill White and Dennis Haber, lawyers from Florida who assure us they will keep the place in good shape. Thanks to our neighbors, Sue and Ed Boni, we were treated to a bon voyage dinner replete with lobsters, shrimp and cheese cake as well as a tour of their sumptious, lush garden overlooking the Hudson which Ed tends with loving and skilled care.

Cliff Hillman, our dear friend, drove us to the boat club where our boat was docked, helping us load the last of our belongings, taking pictures and waving to us from the dock. It was a great send off.

The trip down the Hudson was calm and beautiful. Despite the bright sun, the new dodger and bimini Snow made for us works great. Lou had gotten the auto pilot working the day before and we used it as we traveled south to meet Tony around the Battery. Lou and I spelled each other continuing to work on the boat. I put away all of the stuff we had loaded in the last two days, and Lou was still finishing carpentry projects for additional storage and boat necessities. My original worries that the boat would be in chaos by the time Tony came on turned out to be unnecessary. Lou was right - it would all take care of itself.

Meeting Tony at a dock just north of the Battery was smooth sailing. He jumped on and away we went to Atlantic Highlands near Sandy Point. Tony and Lou work together like a well oiled machine. They love working and problem solving, and it's a pleasure watching them support each other in their own ways.

There were tons of small, silver fish floating on the water in the harbor. We were told that they die every fall from deoxygenation - too many fish and not enough oxygen. Does this sound right?

We headed out into the ocean (only about a mile off shore) and I was glad when we came into the Manesquan Inlet since the rocking hadn't been kind to me. However, my big accomplishment while traveling was threading the lines into the fender covers with a safety pin. (There are so many chores on the boat that I would never do at home.) Since there were no anchorages, we put in at a marina. I was happy to be ashore and took a half hour walk around the residential area - cute small, well tended houses - and met the guys for fried calamari and beer. At the marina, Lou recognized Norm LaVallee who he had met at the Haverstraw Marina in Rockland County. Norm is traveling solo to South America to do some tango.

The next day was another day of motoring - lousy wind - so we headed towards Barnegat Bay by way of the Point Pleasant Canal and the New Jersey intracoastal waterway. The canal was narrow with several bridges and Lou had to call each one to request that they be opened for us. Each time we passed through, he called back to thank them. The houses lining the canal were small with lovely landscaping facing the canal. What a view! The intracoastal requires a great deal of careful navigating from day marker to day marker due to extensive shoals on either side of the route which could cause us to become grounded despite our shallow draft of 4.5".

Next day, Friday, the wind was finally with us and we were off to the ocean and a brisk sail! On the way to Atlantic City, we saw a large school of fish that appeared to be a cloud moving along the surface of the water, and later, a sand shark leaping about 3 feet into the air three times. What excitement!

Pulling into Atlantic City, we found a marshy cove thanks to Skipper Bob. There were a lot of contrasts here. The huge hotels against the summer houses and condos lining the cove, the city skyline across from the fisherman on the beach, the SUVs on the end of the beach. I remember crossing the Brigantine Bridge with my sister Lee and Lucy one summer and wondering how to get out to those SUVs on the beach. And here I was! As dusk set, the neon lights of the hotels against the night sky made quite a dramatic sight. Harrahs, especially,transfixed me because the curved corner of the building was constantly changing patterns of neon colors and shapes. The next morning we prepared for a stiff wind, but ended up having a lovely sail to Cape May. During the 6 hour trip, Tony and I busied ourselves steering, navigating, listening to my iPod. Thanks, Justine. I love it and so does Lou. All those hours uploading CDs was worth it. What great fun sailing along and listening to the Pirates of Penzance singing, "I am a pirate king..." And what was Lou doing while the boat was rocking back and forth? He was working on creating a shelf area for our new radio so we can broadcast the iPod throughout the boat. That's my honey. Nothing stops him from working on his projects. We said goodby to Tony this morning until he returns in a few weeks. Today we are taking a break from traveling since we're waiting for a fair tide and have docked at the South Jersey Marina in Cape May. This is a fancy place replete with beautiful landscaping and amenities. We were treated to a bag of fruit and candies and the Sunday Philadelphia Inquirer by the young gas attendant who had an extra order.

Sweet Potato pancakes at Dock Mike's started the day. And speaking of food, our meals have been wonderful. My preparations ahead of time finding simple recipes and shopping for them was well worth it. This week we had chicken sausage with quinoa and sauteed pepper; salmon with hoisin sauce and spinach; Borilla plus pasta with tuna, olives, capers, and parsley (thanks, Justine); couscous salad; polenta with cheese and peppers and onions with little lamb chops; and I even used my oven to make an apple crisp! Today we are going shopping to replenish the larder to keep the meals interesting. It's Monday, October 1st and we are headed towards the Chesapeake via Delaware Bay and the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. In order to catch the tide, we left at 6:30 a.m., so for those of you still waking up early, I haven't forgotten.

Along the way we saw the most amazing sight - a school of dolphins! There were so many of them, we needed to keep scanning the water to keep sight of them until they disappeared. What is it about dolphins that give us such a thrill?

In the evening we anchored along side a small island protected from the wind and tomorrow we head into the canal. Talk to you next week!

Shake-down Cruise July 2007

2007-08-26T16:48:00.000-04:00

In May of '07, Lou brought Ripple Effect from the boat yard in Huntington to City Island where he met up with Steve Perell and Tony Orwin to bring it to its home in Nyack outside of our home.

Our first trip on her was a two week shake-down cruise in July with Lou's former boat partner, Tony Betler. It was a challenging trip, but varied and adventurous; it was a sign of things to come! What follows is a log of our adventures on Ripple Effect thanks to Justine, my daughter, and Bob Fine who both provided technical support for this log.

Sights around Manhattan as we headed out to the Long Island Soound: Lots of water traffic including water taxis, ferries, barges and cruisers like us; Jersey City and the Colgate clock (next to the skyscraper); The NY skyline.

We went around the Battery and up the East River. Do you recognize this view? (snoitaN detinU eht) Read the backwards answer.

We're out of the East River and in Eastchester Bay leading out to Long Island Sound. This is Stepping Stones lighthouse which Tony says gets its name from the rocks which extend to the shore. Supposedly you could walk between both in low tide. After motoring the entire way down the Hudson, around Manhattan and out to the Sound, we had a magnificent sail all the way up the Connecticut shore. Lou wisely predicted that this might be the best sail of our trip. We anchored off of Sheffield Island on the coast of Connecticut. While the guys worked on the boat, I rowed ashore to the island and took a walk. It was a glorious day and a gorgeous spot to feel free and unencumbered. Our battery was discharging rapidly, so we had to take a slip at a marina to charge the battery overnight. While there, we worked on endless projects. That's why Lou says the expression 'pleasure cruising' is an oxymoron.

Tony purged the water tanks to make the water drinkable.
I took off the old registration numbers and replaced them with new.
Lou punched our sun and rain shades (dodger and biminy) with grommets to attach them to the boat.
Tony worked in the cockpit locker looking for the wiring for the auto helm which wasn't working.

At another time, the anchor line became wrappped around the wing of the keel making it impossible to pull up the anchor. Once again, Tony came to the rescue.
When the jib (small sail) retaining clip fell into the water, we hitched a ride in the back of a pickup truck to find a replacement and then back again. We felt like kids again!

At the Norwalk Cove Marina, as we grilled sausage and vegetables on the BBQ overlooking the waterfront. The most spectacular sunset brought a colorful ending to our day.

The next day, we inadvertantly entered a storm traveling from Black Rock, Connecticut to Port Jefferson in Long Island. I was huddled against the cabin trying to keep dry and warm, but more importantly keeping my stomach calm while the boat rocked on the 3 to 5 foot waves. Despite all this, the storm was quite beautiful. The rain resembled snow and when it hit the waves, turned to vapor due to the temperature change. Wish I had had a waterproof camera bag. We returned to Nyack after two weeks and started the preparations to travel south. We had two months to research, purchase, install, design, build, and fit out the boat. Sounds like a long time...