At first, we weren't sure if we wanted to go to Savannah. It was 16 miles out of our way - that's 3 hours since we motor 5 miles an hour! We tried to get into a marina along the way, so we could take a taxi or bus there, but it was booked for 3 days. Finally, I said to Lou, it was crazy to be so close and not go, so off we went. After traveling under cloudy, cold and drizzly skies, we were lucky enough to get space at the municipal dock right in the heart of town. We thought we would have to tie up on our own, but were greeted by the skippers of 3 other sailboats who promptly invited us to join them at lunch! We had just eaten, so we ended up taking a trolley tour of the city and learned some fascinating things: In the 70s, Savannah was a ghetto with no money and interest in restoration. Then, the book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil came out followed by the movie (the picture above is the home of the main character who is tried for murder); that changed everything. People became interested in the city, began buying up cheap property, and kindled interest in restoring the beautiful buildings. Here is the restored reform Jewish temple (yes, that's right!) which was established back in the 1700s by a small group of Sephardic Jews from Portugal and Spain, although it was not originally reform. We toured the sanctuary with a former president of the congregation hailing from Brooklyn, NY several decades ago. We loved this town. It was originally planned as a grid system centuries ago is very easy to get around, and every few blocks opens onto a square park. The fountain here is in the largest, Forsyth Park. It's very cosmopolitan, and, as you can see, lush everywhere you look, but still a little rough around the edges. Charleston was gorgeous, but manicured, and perhaps in Lou's words, 'self-conscious'. Savannah's historic district, in contrast, felt comfortable and easy going. The next day after returning to the boat from our exploration of the town, we discovered Jim and Beth of Madcap (cruisers always refer to boat names when mentioning people) who we had previously met in Beaufort. They were standing next to another couple who we assumed they knew. We invited them all for drinks, and it turned out that they didn't know each other after all, but were sailors, too! While we were chatting, Margaret and Phil received a call from Dan and Marjorie, native Savannians to join them for dinner at a local Japanese restaurant, and invited us to go along! A delightful evening of serendipity, don't you think?

Next day, we left the sanctuary of Savannah for the peaceful beauty of the Georgia salt marshes along the ICW.

Meeting Fred in Beaufort, SC

All along our trip, we've been talking to Fred, our Nyack neighbor who lives on his Nordic Tug, Northstar, in the Hudson during the spring and fall months when he's not cruising. Fred has done the trip to the Bahamas a number of times and has been one of Lou's gurus for this trip. So, it was with great pleasure, that we finally caught up with each other in South Carolina.

Beaufort, pronounced Byoofort, as opposed to Beaufort, North Carolina (pronounced the way it is spelled) was the quintessential southern town. Fred took us on a walk of the point to see pecan trees (we picked the nuts up off the ground and opened them to get at the delicious meat inside), live oaks covered in Spanish moss (these trees are unlike northern oak trees, but massive in size and breadth), and plantation type homes.

In the evening, we had dinner with Fred and his friend Mark, and experienced this sunset. Next stop: Savannah!

Saying Goodbye in Charleston

Today Marla and Tony left us :( On their last day, Marla and I went to the Charleston Aquarium, and what a special place it was.

Overlooking the harbor, it incorporated the outside with the inside. The picture on the left shows a salt marsh complete with heron, egrets, turtles, etc. as we looked out on the harbor beyond. Tony chose, instead, to stay aboard with Lou working on repairs. Here he is up the mast working on one of the lights. (Can't figure out how

to turn the picture, though. Another thing to work on.)

Tony and Marla left us with wonderful gifts. Tony installed our new radio so we can now listen to selections from my ipod, Marla copied songs and jokes from her ipod to CDs for us; and if that wasn't enough, Tony completely restocked our bar. Of course, if they hadn't done any of that, their company would have been enough. Tony helped Lou navigate and steer (saving me the onerous job during cold mornings!), and Marla shared the task of cooking lunches and dinners giving me more time for myself. They had come as crew to go out into the ocean on overnight voyages, but we never made it due to cold temperatures, bad wind direction and strong seas. Hope they'll come back to try again.

Here we are trying to keep warm with our propane heater; when we are on shore power, we have been using our electric portable heater that Lyn Borek gave us - thanks Lyn - we love it!

Charleston is wonderful, by the way. The entire downtown is lovingly and beautifully restored and every block is a feast for the eyes. We started our exploration with a carriage ride (if you look closely, you can see Lou waving); later, Marla seridipitously found a coffee shop one holding an open mike night. Lou and Marla played backgammon while we rested our tired feet escaping the cold and listened to poetry, folk and jazz mostly by young people from the University of South Carolina.

Some interesting sights we encountered: it's full of colonial houses that have a false door that leads to a piazza, or balcony/deck on the side of the house. It's from there that you actually enter the house. Crepe myrtle trees and creeping fig are also abundant throughout the city. And, the ubiquitous palmetto palm trees protected the city from invasion from the British: they were used to create a 'fort' and when the British fired cannons, they became imbedded in the soft 'trunks' without doing damage. Thus, the palmetto tree on the state flag.

We're having fun eating here, too; we tried fried green tomatoes, bisquits with sausage gravy, creamed corn, catfish, shrimp with grits, and of course, fried chicken. Looking forward to trying ho cake. (What IS that?)

Note: Just learned from our friend, Bob Fine, that if you click on the word 'comments' at the bottom of each post, even if it has a zero in front of it, it will send you to a window where you can leave a message for us. Be forewarned, though, I may publish it!

Waiting out Hurricane Noel

Right now, Lou,Tony, Marla and I are waiting out hurricane Noel in a dredged basin in the Camp LeJeune Marine Base in southern North Carolina. Seven other boats are here, mostly sailboats and we know a few from the New Bern Gam. We chose this basin for its safety, but it has turned out to be a lovely and interesting spot as well despite the incessant winds. We are surrounded by marshland and can see occasional boats traveling down the ICW. Contrasted with that are the sounds of machine guns, cannons and Osprey(?) helicopters (the type that can change their wings to fly like an airplane)from the training grounds. Nearby, is an old, rusted tanker. Its bow has a gun mounted to the top and opens to allow tanks to come out. Lou and I went ashore and met a Phillapino couple fishing for mullet with lines and nets; they had caught 19 of them before leaving. They were curious about the sailboats and wondered what they were used for. The idea of recreational cruising was strange to them.

On shore were piles of large oyster shells we assumed were from the dredging. Shoaling is a constant problem along the waterways, as you can imagine, and we were able to see a dredging boat in the distance spewing out the water in a long graceful stream it had sucked out of the channel bed.

Last night was a magnificent sunset; the four of us were busy taking 'art' pictures followed by dinner and rummikub (thanks Carol and Cliff!). I asked myself, "Whatever happened to red sky at night, sailors' delight with a hurricane brewing?" Well, during the night, the wind started up and we all slept poorly, but the morning brought sun. I guess the sailors ditty has it right. The next day was sunny, but very windy. We kept listening to the forecast awaiting the worst, but it never came; the most we got was strong wind gusts which rattled, shook, and turned the boat. Apparently, there is another sailors' ditty about the wind that Lou taught me that explained it all:

Wind before Rain,

You'll soon sail again;

Rain before Wind,

Topsails lowered,

and halyards mind.

They were right again; we were sailing down the ICW the next day, sun shining despite a very cold morning.

New Bern and the Southbound Cruisers Rendezvous

New Bern, named by a Swiss, is not technically on our trip south, but it was an opportunity to meet, network and learn about the cruisers' life at the Southbound Cruisers Rendezvous or 'gam' (get together). We anchored in the Trent River and spent 6 days going ashore with our dinghy to explore, greet and meet, and, as Tony said, go to school.

Tony and his wife Marla came to join us into Florida. In preparation for their arrival, I cleaned the boat thoroughly and thought to myself while scrubbing the floor of the head (bathroom), I don't even do this at home! Next day, I paid for it - my sciatica returned. It's a sure consequence of cleaning, so Lou will just have to do it from now on!

Anyway, the four of us celebrated Marla's birthday at a seafood restaurant with a wonderful sparkling chardonnay, Barefoot Bubbly. The next day we took a tour of the Tryon Palace which was the first governor's mansion, and a trolley ride of the New Bern historic homes and buildings.

At the Gam, we attended presentations by experienced cruisers on topics such as Suddenly Alone (what to do in the event that your partner is incapaciated), Forecasting Weather, When Mars and Venus Go Cruising, and Real World Advice for Beginning Cruisers. The presentations were professional and everyone was friendly and helpful. On the last night, we celebrated with a fried chicken dinner and were entertained by a Barbershop Quartet of fellow cruisers.

One surprise at coming to New Bern, was getting in touch with old friends of Lou's, David and Diana Sousa. The three of them hadn't been in touch since the Sousas moved down to North Carolina from Rockland County when they used to sail together 25 years ago. Of course, everyone still looked the same! During our stay, we had a lovely dinner at their home, and they graciously offered to let me shower there which was a real treat from the confined space of the boat. Our last evening ashore they took us to the Centenary Methodist Church for a theme dinner in the basement. Everyone was dressed as monks in a darkened room lit by candles and we were entertained with medievel acapella chants.

Back on our trip south on the North Carolina Intracoastal Waterway...

Oriental

Oriental is a small village on the coast of the Neuse River in North Carolina. We anchored here to escape the forecasted high winds and thunderstorms. The first night we bounded out of bed in order to close all of the hatches and portholes due to torrential rain, and today while in a marine store a squall hit - high winds and heavy rains causing huge puddles and rivers of water in the streets. But the whole thing was over within 10 minutes. Thankfully, we weren't sailing; Lou reviewed procedures in the event that we are. As you can see, the sun didn't stay in for very long. In fact, we have been told by a waitress who moved to North Carolina from Ohio, that there are rarely a series of gloomy days down here.

This charming and friendly village is arty yet centered around fishing and boating. Many people we met were transplanted northeners. The woman running the marina office, a retired principal from Patterson, NJ, explained that she fell in love with Oriental when she realized strangers were saying hello to her as she drove in her car. That, and the warmer weather and lower prices convinced her.

We decided to stay a second day due to high winds and attended a chili cook-off. Lou and I had our favorite: The Deightons chili had bacon and a secret ingredient (I swore not to tell) giving it a slightly sweet flavor. We bought a container to have later, and took a picture of the chefs.

Our third night in Oriental, we tied up at the town dock. Here is Lou next to Ripple Effect. You can see the commercial fishing boats beyond. (reminder: you can enlarge the pictures by clicking on them.)

Thanks to Lynn and Lee, my sisters who gave me a portable DVD player for my last birthday, (and friends Sally and Evan, and cousins Susan and Jordan for lending us videos) we are enjoying movies on the boat. Last night we watched TransAmerica with Hillary Duff which was an uneasy, but engrossing movie. She deserved getting an Academy nomination.

While here, Lou found a marine consignment shop and I unfolded my bike and took a ride along the coast looking at the lovely houses and stopped at the local supermarket on the way back.

On New Year's eve, the town holds a dragon parade symbolic of the Orient, and throughout the town we were surprised by dragons on porches, in stores, and even in streams where the picture above was taken.

On to the Southbound Cruisers' Rendezvous next...

The Dismal Swamp

Dear Blog Readers, I had intended on publishing many more pictures and more frequently, but due to difficulties with the software despite Marla's wonderfully knowledgeable guidance, it has been spotty. So, rather than waiting longer, here is my next installment. Please send your comments (click on the comment button at the bottem of the post) and let me know if you want less description, more about us, more about the boat...whatever: Entering the Great Dismal Swamp route of the ICW was a last minute decision and as Lou says, "Like all last minute decisions, it proved to be the right one." That's Lou, for you. After the enormity and cacaphony of Norfolk, the swamp was quiet, peaceful and calm.

In 1728 a colonel brought a group of surveyors to explore the swamp, and after surviving yellow flies, chiggers and ticks, described it as "dismal" and a"horrible desert". Originally 2200 miles, over time development has eroded the area and today only 600 square miles remain thanks to legislation.

The Dismal Swamp Canal is the oldest continuously running canal in the US and the only canal with locks on the ICW. It was our first experience going through locks, and though it took forever, was fun, interesting and the time passed quickly as we chatted with the other boat owners waiting to go through with us.

The water in the canal is brown due to the tannic acid in the water from the bark of surrounding trees. Water in our faucet and head looked strangely dirty, but in fact, tasted fine and was healthy to drink as the acid prevents bacteria from growing. Further on down the canal, we encountered an enormous amount of what looked like algae but is called duck weed here. It was so thick that it appeared to be a green carpet. Things could even float on it. It had a beautiful luminescence; however, problems ensued. Several boats, including ours, got the stuff stuck in our fresh water intake thruhull. We had to stop and blow out hoses and valves. Lou finally solved the problem by shoving a wire coat hanger through the thruhull. The whole episode delayed our progress and we were hard pressed to get to an anchorage area in the swamp before the sun set. The next morning, as we took off, the sight was stunning: the early morning fog and rising sun gave a mysterious view of the swamp.

A week after traveling through the canal, we were informed that it had been temporarily closed; the dry conditions this summer and fall had caused the water level to fall too low for boats to pass through.

Leaving the Chesapeake for the ICW

Our trip from Hampton in the southern Chesapeake brought us to Norfolk, Virginia with an amazing array of military vessels: mile after mile of aircraft carriers, destroyers and battleships (we think) accompanied by fighter jets and Apache helicopters (we think). As we continued, the navy ships were replaced by huge cranes for lifting and moving the containers from ships; and further on, as we approached Portsmouth, the scene changed to schooners, barges, and fishing vessels. We were agog and overwhelmed with the enormity of this larger than life industrial landscape.

Just before arriving at the turn off for the ICW or Intracoastal Waterway, we got stuck for about an hour behind a barge trying to maneuver a turn in order to pass through a drawbridge. A tug at the rear pulled backwards to act as a brake while another pulled the bow. Those barges are helpless without their mother tugs.

Finally, we got through the drawbridge and entered the ICW. Immediately, the environment changed dramatically. If you want to know how, see our next post on the Great Dismal Swamp.

Tangier Island

I had been hearing about Tangier Island in the Chesapeake from Lou and Tony since their last trip there two years ago. As we approached, we could see all of the fishing sheds up on stilts since the flood waters are so high here. The island is flat as a pancake. You can almost see one end while looking from the other. The residents travel by bike and golf carts and we were fortunate enough to be given a tour in one by Mr. Parks, the 76 year old owner of the marina where we docked. As we traveled, he would stop occasionally to speak to neighbors and friends. His family is the largest on the island and he was a waterman all of his life, but finally gave it up two years ago since he was losing money. Despite the insular community, the population is declining due to economic difficulties. While exploring, we passed by the school which had been rebuilt on a higher level to prevent flooding. You could see bicycles from small to large belonging to the students inside. In the afternoon, we visited the local hardware store. Later that day, we ate dinner family style at the Chesapeake House. This family style restaurant seats you with other diners and brings out about 10 different dishes including crab cakes and clam fritters. The dishes are shared among all while you get to know your tablemates. We were lucky. We met John and Larry, two sailors from the area who were exploring the Bay for a vacation.

The Chesapeake

Well, Ripple Effect is doing more motoring than sailing lately, but the weather has been great, the sights sublime, and the cruisers we are meeting are friendly and interesting. We did manage to get in two days of brisk sailing along the southern Chesapeake. Lou was in his element even when he had to crawl up to the bow in 20 mile an hour winds to repair a hole in the jib.

Our view from Delaware Bay into the Chesapeake.

Chesapeake Bay is amazing as those of you who have read Michener's book already know. But I haven't, and I've never been here so I was unprepared for the vastness yet smallness: endless miles of inlets, islands, rivers and coves. Truly a lifetime of exploring. We shared the bay mostly with cruising and fishing boats, but occasionally the big guys - barges and container ships - passed by, once close enough to give me a scare. The picure here looks like a ship but is a long barge pushed by a tug. Another interesting sight as we travel is the contrast between the traditional and the new as evidenced by the light 'houses' we come upon. We've had a few memorable stops. The Crab Deck in Kent Narrows provides a free dock if you eat there. We needed to call the bridge tender to request permission to enter the Narrows. Yeah, we are one of those boats the cars have to wait for to let pass under the drawbridge. And after Lou thanked him when we were through, he stuck his head out of the window and replied in a southern drawl, "Yu-u-u-up!" This was our introduction into Chesapeake crabs. They are steamed in a delicious seasoning and sold by the dozen or half dozen. Our table was covered in brown wrapping paper and we were given wooden mallets and a roll of paper towel to use while breaking them open. After a short lesson on the best procedure, we got pretty good at this. And boy, were they succulent - and messy. We weren't able to finish our order, so we took them to the boat and had the leftovers the next day using winch handles to crack them open. They were still wonderful.

The Chesapeake is the home of Watermen who work the waters for oysters, shrimp and crab making the area what it is.

One town we visited has been hit hard by the decline in oysters in the bay and deterioration and empty stores are seen everywhere. They are trying hard to regenerate what was once the Oyster Capital of the World by building condos and writing urban renewal grants. The local museum organizes Elderhostel trips in the Chesapeake and includes visits to oyster and crab facilities. Apparently, the trips are sold out every year.

On to Herring Bay. We anchored alone between two marinas seen off in the distance, and it was so warm we were able to go swimming.

We are struck by the hospitality of people here. Everyone is chatty, interested in us and so helpful especially in giving cruisers rides. Some local supermarkets drive you to their stores to shop and back again!

Our days are going so quickly busy with navigating, enjoying the scenery, socializing and maintaining the boat. One morning we spent 3 hours cleaning her from top to bottom. I was so exhausted I promised never to that again! I haven't even cleaned my house in about 30 years.

One morning we turned on the engine to get going, and it wouldn't start. So for 3 hours Lou tried everything he could think of - even reading the dreaded manual - and finally, thanks to tips from Tom Stefanic and Bob Fine his sailing gurus, it started up. He's not sure what did it but we haven't had problems since.

I recently read that sailing is boat maintenance in exotic places, and this trip is no different. Every week presents another challenge. But Lou is never deterred or despondent. He rolls up his sleeves and tackles the impossible.

In Deltaville we excitedly picked up our first General Delivery mail sent by our organized and dependable partner in our cruising venture, my daughter Justine. Without her we would be lost! Got alot of exercise walking to the post office that day, too.

A sign of a warmer climate along the walk to the post office.