Exploring Eleuthera

Another still day, this time with barely a whisper of wind.

As we motored to Eleuthera (an island even longer than Long Island - go figure), we passed a cruise ship shuttling passengers back and forth to the nearby resort. We knew we were leaving the southern Bahamas behind and entering the central islands, because cruise ships are not seen further south.

At the end of the day, we pulled into our first marina since entering the Bahamas in Bimini; the next anchorage was too far away to reach before dark. But it was no big deal. The showers were weak, the laundry had only one dryer working, but the worst was the proliferation of the no-see-ums. The boat was so hot that we escaped onto chairs on the dock where there was a slight breeze. We endured the biting and itching until the sun set. As the boat cooled down, we draped all of our hatches with screening material enabling us to pass a comfortable night.

Just as we finished anchoring the next day, we were immediately informed by a cruiser in a passing dinghy that Happy Hour was starting, so we grabbed something to share and headed out to meet and greet and watch the sunset!

The setting was perfect - all gathered under the gazebo of a defunct restaurant. Of course, getting up there was tricky - we had to walk over the rocks in shallow water and hoist ourselves up a rickety ladder. It's a sight to see all of these retirees working it out in different ways.

The next day, we headed over to Rose's home and restaurant (notice the floor of sand) on the ocean side for a home cooked Bahamian meal with Sandy and Tom Stefanic (Anania) of the Nyack Boat Club who have been our mentors throughout this trip south. Rose picked us up in her small, rickety car, and as she cooked, we walked along the beach below her house. Afterwards, she regaled us with the story of how she ended up living in the house as a widow and making do with her entrepreneurial skills.

As the inevitable cold front arrived the next day, we rented a car. See Lou waving next to the mileage signs? (Remember to look on the wrong side of the car! Bahamians drive on the left.)

We saw Surfers' Beach where we watched 2 boys and a girl trying hard to catch a wave in very windy and rough conditions while their parents watched from a covered beach platform.

Another wonderful sight was the Glass Window (Winslow Homer painted a famous picture here) named after the narrowest part of the island. Here you can see the ocean on one side (enlarge the picture to see the breaking waves) and the calm bay on the other. We crossed a bridge traversing this spot where lives have been lost by crashing waves. You could see sections of the bridge where the force of hurricane winds had separated the concrete from the pinions/posts. Such drama here on this small spot.

Upon leaving, we actually had a series of real sailing days doing about 6 to 10 knots (When we passed through Current Cut, aptly names due to the swift current between 2 islands.). Unfortunately, I broke out with a case of hives due to inadvertantly taking acitaminaphen (it was one of several medications in a cold pill) which I am allergic to. Other than itching, swelling and turning red, it was gone within a couple of hours; but it did give me a fright.

We are on our way to two islands at the tip of 'Lutra (as the natives call it) for sights very different from what we have been seeing.

Conception and Cat

We had a calm voyage leaving Long Island on our way to Conception Cay. The water was so still, it was like glass without even a ripple. Lou and Tony busied themselves taking pictures of the numerous starfish we passed as we traveled; the water was so clear, we could see to the bottom. The air was so still, that visibility was limited; not foggy, but, in Lou's words, "The atmosphere had a palpable quality to it." Bottom line: it was a uniquely stunning trip. Conception Cay is a Bahamian park, uninhabited, and visitors are prohibited from leaving or taking anything found. The north end is so narrow that you can walk from the west side to the east (the Atlantic) in about 30 steps. The interior of the island is largely mangrove lakes and creeks. We took the dinghy there to see large turtles, but due to very shallow

water, didn't explore enough to see them. A beautiful trip, nevertheless. Snorkeling proved to be dissapointing despite numerous coral heads and large reefs since they are dying and few fish appeared. Will the park rules bring back the reefs, and if so, how long will it take? We would have loved to have stayed another day, but a severe cold front was coming, and we went in search of better protection from Cat Cay, a day's sail away. We did manage to put up the sails for a while, and even the spinnaker,the colorful, billowy sail you see on boats, got some use today! Before the front hit, we managed to take a walk up to the highest point on the island to see the Hermitage, the last home of Father Jerome, the beloved priest and architect of Bahamian churches. As the day wore on, the winds increased until we were rocking back and forth so hard that we could hear all of the dishes, pots and pans, and provisions slamming into the stowage walls. Tony and I had to take pills for motion sickness and we were all asleep by 9:00. (It's said that 8:30 is the cruisers' midnight.) Tony and Marla left from Cat Cay leaving Lou and me alone again - time to catch up on chores and making future plans for the eventual trip home in a few weeks.

Next stop is Eleuthera, one of the largest Islands in the Bahamas.

Lots to Do and See on Long Island

What? Long Island? Are we home already? No, it's Long Island in the Bahamas! It's 75 miles long, though only a few miles wide in some places. While we waited out a cold front (cooler temperatures, high winds and a rough sea state making it difficult, uncomfortable and dangerous to travel) - we rented a car with our friends, Tony and Marla who returned once again to sail with us. Here are a few sights we traveled to: The Salt Pond Caves: Located in the town of Salt Pond, along the coast, and hidden between a house and a gas station,we explored three chambers, each one distinct and amazing in it's own way. The first contained skylights with intertwined vines growing from the earth into the cave; the second was open to the sky due to a previous collapse; and the third was totally dark and contained some new and old stalagtites and stalagmites (and bats!).

Dean's Blue Hole: The deepest in the world dropping to 663 feet. This place was spectacular, protected on one side and open to the ocean on the other. As we traveled up and down Queen's 'Highway' (The main drag that flows north to south through the island), we passed enumerable churches, mainly Baptist, Catholic and Anglican. Here is St Mary's, the first Long Island Church, along with a Catholic Church built in the 20's by Father Jerome, an influential British architect and priest whose numerous churches are found through the island and beyond. Occasionally, we saw domestic sheep and goats romping alongside the houses. When Lou spotted mutton on the menu at Harbour Rest, Lou had to have it. It came prepared in a delicious sauce, and we ended the meal with Guava Duff: dense bread slathered with guava jelly and covered with a creamy sauce. Very tasty, very Bahamian, very satisfying. The Long Island Library, Museum, and Community Center:

The library is upstairs, and the Center in the back. Three rooms in the museum gave a beautifully displayed overview of the history and culture of the island which were elaborated on by a museum docent. This endeavor was developed by a group of diverse and talented Long Island natives. On the way back to return the car, we stopped at Max's Conch Rest for fresh conch salad (yum!)and wifi! This was one of very few places for us to check email and I couldn't update the blog due to very little time left with the car rental. While there, we met another cruising couple who had a larger version of the boat we have and the next day we visited them for a tour. Their boat is 10 cubic feet larger and is more like a home afloat for their live-aboard experience. When we weren't driving, we walked over to the other side of the island, the Atlantic Ocean side. Several of the Bahamian islands are further east bordering the ocean rather the Sound, and that is the course we will be taking in the next few weeks. We climbed enormous rocks jutting out from the beach, swam in a protected area, and snorkeled a shallow reef. Marla sat for hours watercoloring; she is getting to be quite good, making great progress from the days motoring down the intracoastal waterway. Here are a couple of pictures of the few birds we have seen on any of the islands. The ubiquitous plastic flotsam and jetsum, too, are always there as we beachcomb. (We were recently told that years ago the eggs were taken to ward off hunger and it's taking years for them to return - fact or fiction?) Along with the multicolored plastic washed ashore, there are always the coconuts. An unusual sight - a new growth out of a coconut seed! The night before leaving, we met our friends from Renaissance, Lynn and Al, who we had traveled with in the Exumas. They were now anchored on the other side of the island while Lynn's son and companion visited, and were able to meet with us while they were in a rental car. Here we all are at the bar of Parrots of the Carribean. During our weeklong stay in the Thompson's Bay anchorage, we spent time with our French-Canadian friends from Ahora, Patrick and Catherine and their two year old, Rupert. We are sorry to leave them as they wait for the arrival of Patrick's parents. This morning we are on our way north to a new island...not sure which one -depends on the wind and the seas and the whimsy of the captain. Don't forget, we would love to hear from you; click on the word Comments at the bottom of this post and send us a public message! (...and remember that you can click on the pictures to enlarge them.)

George Town Fun

Here we are at last...I've finally been able to update the blog with another post; this time, our fun in George Town. This is the final winter resting place for many cruisers to the Bahamas. It is located in the southern Exuma island chain on the largest island in the Bahamas, Great Exuma. The town of George Town has an internet grocery store where you can use your laptop for $5.00 daily and have an ice cream pop or buy a box of corn flakes. You can get freshly made bread from Mom's van, get gas @ $5.00+gallon and water (free, here, but you have to fill your jugs in your dinghy and lug them back to your boat). Two big events in the winter/spring draw cruisers here. The first is the Cruisers' Regatta (races along with fun activitires-see the cruisers parade to left), and the second is the Exuma Family Regatta. In addition, over the years, the cruisers have developed a network of communication and daily activities which rival any adult day camp. The Cruisers' Net is broadcast every morning on the VHF(Ship to Shore) radio. After a synopsis of the local weather, the local businesses advertise any new events or services; next, announcements are made about the regatta. Following that, a Community Forum allows anyone to make announcements relevant to the cruising community; and finally, Boaters' General gives everyone the opportunity to advertise any needs or wants. For example, through the Net, we were able to upgrade to a bigger outboard motor for our slow dinghy, network with other boaters regarding electrical problems, give away an old charger we no longer wanted, attend some seminars about weather and racing, enter the T-shirt design contest, and so on. Activities here are held on Stocking Island which faces 5 mile long Elizabeth Harbor along George Town, and are limited only to the cruisers' imagination and willingness to organize them. Since the cruising community has many retirees, their experience and knowledge is used to benefit other boaters. Some examples are Rockin' Ron and his wife Karen who throw a weekly Rock n' Roll dance; a seminar on boating insurance given by the owner of Tabby Cat, an insurance agent, and daily yoga and pilates 'classes'. In addition, one can learn bridge, basket weaving, exchange videos, get together for a musical jam session, learn basket weaving using local plant fronds, play bridge, golf, poker (Texas hold 'em) softball, tennis...and that doesn't include the Regatta activities! We attended the opening festivities for regatta: a juried pet parade where cruisers dressed themselves and their pets, a cat walk replete with painted back drop, lights, and masked, costumed cruisers dancing to music, skits written and performed the boaters; and finally, dancing under the stars on the beach to rock n' roll. These are examples of a few of the catwalks.

We also signed up for the race around Stocking Island and came in 3rd (only 2 seconds after the 2nd place!) In addition, Lou submitted a water color design for the t-shirt contest for 2009, and came in third. Here is the design (which I think is fabulous), and will make up t-shirts when we get home. Justine and Damien, my kids, came down for a week with us. Here is Stocking Island while taking a walk with Lou and Justine followed by Justine next to a conch salad stand on Volleyball Beach. Both of them were intent on getting tans. Damien had a unique way of facing the sun.

I can't believe we were here for over 25 days (we came and went, then returned), and we were really ready to leave.

Next stop: Long Island (in the Bahamas, silly!)

Traveling Towards George Town

So, here we are at last...George Town. Thanks to all who have been checking in for an update, and sorry that it has taken so long. As we expected, we've had just about no access to computers since we have been stopping at islands with no service or inhabitants, but we now have an internet store where you can use your laptop for $5.00 daily, get your computer fixed by the owner, Julius, and even have an ice cream pop or buy a box of corn flakes. We've had so many adventures since crossing the Gulf Stream with Lou's friend Peter and his girlfriend, Nancy. Here is an update from Florida to Georgetown: The Crossing: The day before Peter and Nancy arrived, we were given a ride to the supermarket by Skip and Lydia of Flying Pig who we met at the anchorage in Miami. We picked up red onions which we can't live without and O'Douhl's beer for Peter. On the way to the "staging area" (where you get ready to leave), we ran aground and had to hail Sea Tow to haul us off. Just as we got free, we saw a long line of sailboats heading in a different direction. A veteran cruiser, Bob of Cygnet, advised us to follow them to Biscayne Bay where it would be calmer, and the next morning before dawn we followed 2 catamarans out of the channel toward the Gulf. We motorsailed along with 22 other boats on a beautiful sunny day. (Everyone had been waiting for the right weather window.) Most of them went on to Nassau for an overnight crossing, but we headed into Bimini and pulled into a marina (only $25.00/day) for facilities and easy exploring. Lou went to customs and immigration while we waited aboard. That night we toasted with a saved bottle of champagne to the successful and easy crossing! (thanks to Lou's exceptional navigational abilities.) Bimini: We rented a golf cart to explore Bimini. Along the way, we stopped at a beach stand (the only one on the island) for freshly made conch salad and grilled conch made by Sherri and her husband. Conch is the culinary mainstay of the Bahamas and is used in everything. You can find it everywhere you go, from small shells to the queens which are the best. At sundown, the cruisers often blow their conch (Lou cut off the tip and dug out a hole and is getting pretty good. The sound is like a ram's horn.) and you can sometimes hear them answering one another in different tones from various boats. The salad was delicious, but we had to wait a while for them to go get the conch for preparation, so we walked along the beach with their little boy. The Berry Islands: We had our first overnight passage and took 3 hour shifts alternating with Peter and Nancy. We prepared food in advance for us to nibble on overnight and had a brisk sail averaging 20 kts. The stars were lovely, and we passed only a few freighters, easy to see in the dark from far away. The morning was clear, warm, sunny and inviting for exploration, so we went ashore for a walk and had an impromptu snack on the beach. PIC Nassau: Our sail into Nassau was 20+ winds heeled way over to the toe rails. It was thrilling to be sailing once again, and we could hardly remember all of those days motoring down the ICW. We crossed the Tongue of the Ocean where the depths are so great that the depth sounder no longer registers. Unfortunately, when we needed to use the engine, it suddenly died; although Lou bled it along with Nancy's able assistance (I get queasy down below and she has a cast iron stomach), we couldn't get started and had to anchor under sail into the Nassau harbor. Once again, Lou's skills, both netoworking and sailing, got us safely anchored just inside the harbor where the Haitian work boats pick up merchandise to bring back home. Another sailboat was anchored nearby with engine problems as well. He suggested bleeding the engine once again, and this time it worked! Turns out that all of the heeling over while sailing had caused an air lock. The next day we reanchored across from the Atlantis on Paradise Island and used it as a base for fun acitivities. One day we motored to a nearby island for swimming and walking and the guys spotted a huge ray near shore as well as an octopus spurting ink and going after prey. Alas, we had to say goodbye to Peter and Nancy who headed back to the snow in Wisconsin. This was Nancy's first real sailing trip and she certainly had a varied experience. She was also a definite asset, as Peter was, helping with sailing, the overnight, in the galley, and lots of fun for Lou to play with. Aarghh! After they left, we hooked up with Fred, our Nyack boat neighbor aboard North Star and Mark, his cruising buddy on Ibis. During sundowners on our boat (This is a cruising tradition. Everyone supplies a snack and brings their own drinks to make it easy for the host.), we made arrangements to travel towards George Town together along with their friends Al and Lynn on Renaissance. They say things come in threes and we got our share of that the next day First, we got hit by a driving rain in our dinghy coming back from doing laundry. We were like wet rats when we arrived at the boat, but the laundry was dry due to Lou's foresight. (He offered to buy a large garbage bag from the marina to wrap the laundry in.) Somehow while boarding the boat in the rain, my eye glasses broke. Luckily, I had a spare pair which I've been using ever since. Then, that afternoon, during the storm, a neighboring boat alerted us that our anchor was dragging, so we had to reanchor. Finally, our dinghy somehow came loose, and we had to pick up the anchor once again to retrieve it. Well, that was three, so I knew it would end there, but it didn't stop us from having a sleepless night during the high winds and rain fearful that we would drag again. Next day, we set off to see iguanas... Allan's Cay: This island (cay is pronounced key) is a protected area for the Bahamian rock iguanas which are only found in the Bahamas. (makes sense doesn't it?) When you arrive, they see you coming and rush out to get fed. They seldom bite, and people feed them by hand though it is not recommended. We kept our distance, and had a lovely walk along the beach. Here is a picture of sea life through the water - a couple of conch shells and starfish. Amazing to see how clear it is!

Norman's Cay: We hooked up with Fred, Mark, Lynn and Al here and had a busy time dinghying to a sunken plane left over from the drug running days on the island, practicing climbing into the dinghy from the water (I couldn't, so Lou constructed a step made out of a metal rod), and beach combing between islands during low tide. Warderick Wells and the Exuma Land and Sea Park: This park was established to protect and maintain the coral reefs and flora and fauna of the Bahamas while furthering research. It is the first island in the Exumas Island chain and consists of a number of islands. They control the number of boats by requiring a reservation for a mooring. During our stay, we walked to BooBoo Hill on one of the many cleared trails (volunteers and rangers do the work), did snorkeling in a fast current (Fred had to tow us back to our dinghy since we were drifting off course), and attended Happy Hour on the beach complete with bonfire. Compass Cay: After a lovely sail doing 5 to 6 kts, we walked along a shallow creek leading out to Exuma Sound. The Exuma Islands are bordered on the west by the Bahamian Banks, a shallow area with depths averaging about 15 feet. On the east lies Exuma Sound which leads eventually to the Atlantic Ocean. The western side of the islands is calm, quiet and shallow while the east is often wild and windy with depths of over a thousand feet. The beach we walked along was full of flotsam and jetsum, common on beaches bordering the sound, and it is fascinating to see the junk that washes ashore. In addition, we are enjoying developing a collection of interesting shells, coral, and beans. Around the corner we explored Rachel's Bubble Bath, an area where the waves of the sound break over the limestone rocks creating bubbles in a clear, calm pool. Staniel Cay: Our early morning departure for this island (usually after listening to the 6:30 a.m. weather forecast), netted a large mahi for Al who enjoys fishing as he sails along the Sound. (Several days later, Lynn graciously invited us all over for fish chowder.) After a walk to the grocery store and airport, we saw 2 huge stingrays and a nurseshark doing circles around the town dock waiting for the fishing boats to come in. Later, word got out that a boat was bringing in a hammerhead shark. Unlike the nurse shark which is harmless, the hammerhead is a predator and the locals go after them with spears when they are sighted. Lou took the following pictures of it being taken ashore and gutted. The next day, we went snorkeling through a rock grotto full of stunning fish which surrounded us when we shook out crumbs we brought in a ziplock bag.One morning, we went over to a nearby bay to feed the pigs. Pigs? Yes, pigs. Amazingly, there a few pigs that live on the island and are kept healthy and fat by cruisers who come by with veggies and snacks. As if that wasn't enough, we rode our dinghies over to a nearby island over a mile away, for the walk from hell (as Lynn put it) up and down the limestone cliffs, through the sand, rocks and overgrowth along the sound.

Little Farmer's Cay: We came here for the Farmers' Cay First Friday in February Festival, or 5Fs. People come from surrounding islands as far as Nassau to participate in or watch the regatta. The cruisers organized a flea market, contests, and a scavenger hunt for the kids. We ate alot of native food: macaroni and cheese, ribs, fried fish, cole slaw and had a local drink that Lou said looked like windex, but packed a wallop. Super Bowl Sunday we headed to a small marina, Farmer's Cay Yacht Club, and watched the Giants upset the Patriots in the last minute of the game. Cave Cay: During our happy hour on the beach with cruisers from the anchorage, we watched the sunset and witnessed a Green Flash, a phenomenon seen in the Bahamas when the sun disappears along the horizon. The crowd of cruisers cheered in excitement though the flash is so short that you can easily miss it. Next stop - Georgetown - our destination for a while where we did laundry, filled up with water and fuel, bought groceries at the local supermarket which gets deliveries from Nassau and the States, and fixed our new outboard motor...