Leaving the Chesapeake for the ICW

Our trip from Hampton in the southern Chesapeake brought us to Norfolk, Virginia with an amazing array of military vessels: mile after mile of aircraft carriers, destroyers and battleships (we think) accompanied by fighter jets and Apache helicopters (we think). As we continued, the navy ships were replaced by huge cranes for lifting and moving the containers from ships; and further on, as we approached Portsmouth, the scene changed to schooners, barges, and fishing vessels. We were agog and overwhelmed with the enormity of this larger than life industrial landscape.

Just before arriving at the turn off for the ICW or Intracoastal Waterway, we got stuck for about an hour behind a barge trying to maneuver a turn in order to pass through a drawbridge. A tug at the rear pulled backwards to act as a brake while another pulled the bow. Those barges are helpless without their mother tugs.

Finally, we got through the drawbridge and entered the ICW. Immediately, the environment changed dramatically. If you want to know how, see our next post on the Great Dismal Swamp.

Tangier Island

I had been hearing about Tangier Island in the Chesapeake from Lou and Tony since their last trip there two years ago. As we approached, we could see all of the fishing sheds up on stilts since the flood waters are so high here. The island is flat as a pancake. You can almost see one end while looking from the other. The residents travel by bike and golf carts and we were fortunate enough to be given a tour in one by Mr. Parks, the 76 year old owner of the marina where we docked. As we traveled, he would stop occasionally to speak to neighbors and friends. His family is the largest on the island and he was a waterman all of his life, but finally gave it up two years ago since he was losing money. Despite the insular community, the population is declining due to economic difficulties. While exploring, we passed by the school which had been rebuilt on a higher level to prevent flooding. You could see bicycles from small to large belonging to the students inside. In the afternoon, we visited the local hardware store. Later that day, we ate dinner family style at the Chesapeake House. This family style restaurant seats you with other diners and brings out about 10 different dishes including crab cakes and clam fritters. The dishes are shared among all while you get to know your tablemates. We were lucky. We met John and Larry, two sailors from the area who were exploring the Bay for a vacation.

The Chesapeake

Well, Ripple Effect is doing more motoring than sailing lately, but the weather has been great, the sights sublime, and the cruisers we are meeting are friendly and interesting. We did manage to get in two days of brisk sailing along the southern Chesapeake. Lou was in his element even when he had to crawl up to the bow in 20 mile an hour winds to repair a hole in the jib.

Our view from Delaware Bay into the Chesapeake.

Chesapeake Bay is amazing as those of you who have read Michener's book already know. But I haven't, and I've never been here so I was unprepared for the vastness yet smallness: endless miles of inlets, islands, rivers and coves. Truly a lifetime of exploring. We shared the bay mostly with cruising and fishing boats, but occasionally the big guys - barges and container ships - passed by, once close enough to give me a scare. The picure here looks like a ship but is a long barge pushed by a tug. Another interesting sight as we travel is the contrast between the traditional and the new as evidenced by the light 'houses' we come upon. We've had a few memorable stops. The Crab Deck in Kent Narrows provides a free dock if you eat there. We needed to call the bridge tender to request permission to enter the Narrows. Yeah, we are one of those boats the cars have to wait for to let pass under the drawbridge. And after Lou thanked him when we were through, he stuck his head out of the window and replied in a southern drawl, "Yu-u-u-up!" This was our introduction into Chesapeake crabs. They are steamed in a delicious seasoning and sold by the dozen or half dozen. Our table was covered in brown wrapping paper and we were given wooden mallets and a roll of paper towel to use while breaking them open. After a short lesson on the best procedure, we got pretty good at this. And boy, were they succulent - and messy. We weren't able to finish our order, so we took them to the boat and had the leftovers the next day using winch handles to crack them open. They were still wonderful.

The Chesapeake is the home of Watermen who work the waters for oysters, shrimp and crab making the area what it is.

One town we visited has been hit hard by the decline in oysters in the bay and deterioration and empty stores are seen everywhere. They are trying hard to regenerate what was once the Oyster Capital of the World by building condos and writing urban renewal grants. The local museum organizes Elderhostel trips in the Chesapeake and includes visits to oyster and crab facilities. Apparently, the trips are sold out every year.

On to Herring Bay. We anchored alone between two marinas seen off in the distance, and it was so warm we were able to go swimming.

We are struck by the hospitality of people here. Everyone is chatty, interested in us and so helpful especially in giving cruisers rides. Some local supermarkets drive you to their stores to shop and back again!

Our days are going so quickly busy with navigating, enjoying the scenery, socializing and maintaining the boat. One morning we spent 3 hours cleaning her from top to bottom. I was so exhausted I promised never to that again! I haven't even cleaned my house in about 30 years.

One morning we turned on the engine to get going, and it wouldn't start. So for 3 hours Lou tried everything he could think of - even reading the dreaded manual - and finally, thanks to tips from Tom Stefanic and Bob Fine his sailing gurus, it started up. He's not sure what did it but we haven't had problems since.

I recently read that sailing is boat maintenance in exotic places, and this trip is no different. Every week presents another challenge. But Lou is never deterred or despondent. He rolls up his sleeves and tackles the impossible.

In Deltaville we excitedly picked up our first General Delivery mail sent by our organized and dependable partner in our cruising venture, my daughter Justine. Without her we would be lost! Got alot of exercise walking to the post office that day, too.

A sign of a warmer climate along the walk to the post office.