Traveling Home

April 20th, Crossing the Gulf Stream

No matter how good you are at navigation (here are the tools of our navigating: our chart, inlet book, and cruising book), you never know how your trip will turn out because of one small factor: the weather. Until the last minute we hadn't decided if we should make the crossing or not. We kept checking the weather periodically to make sure the winds were with us. Despite all of our researching and precautions, however, mother nature had it in for us.

It started out innocently enough. We were anchored off of an uninhabited island, Allans -Pensacola. This used to be two islands but after a hurricane, the shoals moved, and they are now joined. It was a beautiful, calm day and we dinghied ashore, met some cruisers, and walked across to the other side on a well-worn path to see the amazingly creative sculptures and driftwood signs cruisers have left identifying themselves and their vessels. Usually people gather flotsam and jetsum to craft a whimsical display, but here were some carefully planned and executed presentations. They went on and on from tree to tree. Here is one utilizing old cans that had washed ashore as drums, even with the necessary driftwood sticks! The sign above says, "I don't want to work, I just wanna bang on de drums all day ." Later that day our new friends Penny and George from Star Shot hailed us to say that they had decided to try for the crossing as well, and after a pleasant evening, we both headed west. The forecasts continued to be in our favor so on we went, ready to do an overnight crossing to Port Canaveral. Lou and Tony had carefully studied the navigation, and I prepared dinner and snacks for the overnight watches. I would be at the helm from 10:00 to midnight, Tony until 3:00am and Lou until dawn. We should have heeded the chop, however; as we continued west, the winds turned to north-north-east, a direction never recommended for crossing the Gulf Stream. By this time, it was too late to turn back, so we continued on slogging through the beating and banging. After a sleepless night, the sun came up on the coastline and we were happily greeted by the beautiful, blue waters of Florida. April 30th, The ICW and the Wacamaw River

I wasn't looking forward to traveling the IntraCoastal Waterway again. You know, been there, done that. But, the ICW is always changing and I had forgotten how beautiful it can be. Today we traveled along the Wacamaw River in South Carolina to anchor in an oxbow of a National Wildlife Preserve filled with budding lily pads floatingon the tannic colored water amid bright green cypress trees and their remaining knees. Tony and I took a dinghy ride around and tried to see the turtles sun bathing on driftwood, but they slipped into the water as soon as we came near. Suddenly, in the midst of the serene calm, a large tropical boat chugged by carrying tourists out of Myrtle Beach.

May 2nd, An Inlet Adventure The inlets allow you to leave and enter the ICW from the ocean to make faster time (hopefully). No fear of grounding or power boats speeding by that leave large wakes that roll your boat; no need for careful navigating from marker to marker, and a chance to sail! We had successfully used inlets twice before, once with Tony on an overnight, and a day sail on our own. We wanted to do it again since it was allowing us to make great time, but we didn't know the condition of the New River Inlet due to constant shoaling, so we called Tow Boat U.S., and they said it was ok, it had been dredged in the fall. So we went out the Masonboro/Wrightsville, which was very smooth, and very beautiful, and when we approached the New River buoys 5 hours later, we found waves breaking over them and the depth sounder plummeted to 3 feet. Lou immediately turned around and hailed Tow Boat U.S. on the radio who told us said there must have been a misunderstanding, they never recommend it during these tide conditions (very rolly); "What options did we have?", Lou asked. "Go on to the Bogue Inlet; I'll meet you there and guide you in." And that's just what we did. (Here is Tim with his dog showing us the way.) Of course, the seas were rocking and rolling by that time and we were bushed by 6:00 when we got into our anchorage. Luckily, it was the lovely town of Swansboro, N.C. which we had stopped at on the way down. So, we went ashore, had drinks and dinner at this restaurant on the water as we decompressed and rebalanced our inner rocking, and later, fell into bed.

May 10th, Surprises in Bath and Washington, N.C.

Due to our quick progress up the coast, we had some time to play. (Our home won't be available until May 31st when our tenant moves out) We had heard alot about the charm of both Bath and Washington, North Carolina, and took a 66 mile detour up (and down) the Pamlico River to tie up at a free dock at their separate waterfronts. Here are some surprising events we experienced. You can see why we would return! Bath is the first incorporated city of North Carolina and is filled with green lawns and historic homes and buildings. We passed this library, stopped in to rest, and found that they had a book exchange for boaters. I picked up a copy of a current book Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert, a novel of travel and introspection perfect for me on this trip!

During our walk we passed a field filled with a grain, perhaps wheat? What do we city dwellers

know of crops?

Just as we returned to our boat at the dock, 20kt winds developed without warning. We were on the wrong side of the dock for leaving or peaceful sleep. So Lou and two sailing couples also at the dock helped to kedge off the boat to move it to the leeward (opposite of windward) side of the dock. What that meant was using the dinghy to drop an anchor, attach it to the boat, and use it to pull the bow of the boat into the wind. Despite almost getting the anchor line wrapped around the keel of the boat, it was a successful operation.

People were so friendly in Washington, North Carolina, that they offered to drive us to do our chores, and in fact, the dock attendant drove Lou to a store to get a new tank of propane gas which we use for our stove. In addition, when we were at the local watch repair shop, the owner gave us her personal telephone number in case we needed anything. While I got a haircut, Lou wandered through town and discovered a store that had closed in Nyack and moved south. He used to stop in monthly as a member of their Ginger Club. (After buying 10 bags of crystallized ginger, he got one free.) Of course he stopped in and found Jean, co-owner of Cat Bamboo who remembered him with delight (here she is with her dog on the dock in the above picture) and joined us later for drinks on board. Stopping into the River Gallery, we noticed food being set out. We were just in time for their quarterly open house/reception. What a feast. Every gallery member had brought something homemade. We got to meet so many friendly, interesting people, and even bought a mug and pair of earrings. At the gallery reception, we met Sandy and Joe Davis. Sandy came the next day to interview us for an article in the local paper, and invited

us to their home for dinner. We had trout just caught by her friend, and home baked pecan pie from the mother of one of their boarders, Steve. Here I am with the Davises in their dining room. It was the day before Mother's Day and the flowers were sent to Sandy by her daughter in Israel. May 11th, Stuck in South Lake, N.C. We woke to cloudy, raw and chilly temperatures and had to break out the fleece, gloves and woolen hats. We were actually able to see the vapor of our breath. This meant oatmeal and hot chocolate for warming up. The winds were only 10-15 this morning in the Alligator River, but were expected to reach 35 knots this afternoon. We were racing to the swing bridge before the winds increased since it wouldn't open if they exceeded 35 kts. Got through the bridge, but then heavy rain and winds started so we ducked into an isolated, but protected cove about an hour away to wait out the storm. Now the forecast says the gale won't abate until Wednesday, 3 days away. We'll have to wait to cross the Albermarle Sound into Virginia until then as the winds there can be fierce. Can't even go ashore due to high winds, rain, thunderstorms, and a tornado watch last night. Hope Lou and I don't kill each other by then! Well, at least our cell phones work, and I made brownies to nurture us. On the second day, Lou moved the boat still further inland to a smaller stream with a more protected aspect from the north winds which had developed during the night. The winds continued for the rest of the day, but it was calmer and just beautiful.

Only 2 more weeks to go...