Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Traveling Down the ICW

The Great Dismal Swamp in Virginia (see a previous post), was the beginning of the Intra Coastal Waterway, or ICW, which many cruisers take south to Florida. It is slow due to shallow depths and restricted bridge openings causing us to motor most of the way; but it has been interesting and in many parts, beautiful to see. As we've been traveling down, we've passed through sounds, bays, rivers, and numerous creeks. It is mind boggling to see the interconnected bodies of water flowing from one to another. And the names of the waterways and islands are fascinating, too: Runaway Slave Creek, Point No Point, Clubfoot Creek, Frying Pan Shoal, Sleepy Creek, Mosquito Creek, Turn Again Bay, Lettuce Lake... When we crossed the border into South Carolina, the scenery changed to what we dubbed as Condo Land replete with miles of golf courses, but the southern part of the state became more natural; in Georgia, we passed mile after mile of unspoiled salt marshes. Now that we are in Florida, we have to contend with speeding power boats, numerous request bridges and condominiums. Contrast the two pictures here - the Georgian salt marshes and the first development of condos as soon as we crossed into the state of Florida.

Every boater's fear is running aground on the ICW. Many parts of it are dredged and you can find only 1 to three feet of water out of the channel. Consequently, we watch our depth sounders religiously. Getting distracted for a minute can be death and dismemberment (Lou's words for those who know him). One day, after coming upon a grounded boat and trying unsuccessfully to help free it from the sand bar it was on, we ended up grounding ourselves at the end of the day! How did we do it? Lou and I were so busy discussing the inner workings of the boat (can you believe I am discussing this!) that we took a wrong turn off of the ICW. Low tide didn't help. We couldn't have chosen a better time or place to run aground, however. Our creek was deserted and flanked by trees on the one side and the golden reeds of the salt marshes on the other. So, we anchored; Lou used a special anchor and technique, kedging off, to free us as the tide came in. As night fell, we were surrounded by darkness and the stars above - no lights visible anywhere! The next morning, we were free and headed out into the sunshine. We had been lucky enough to be able to turn lemons into lemonade, and no one was about to see us in our predicament! Stopping along the ICW whether we anchor in the middle of nowhere, pull into the harbor of a city, or stop in a recognized anchorage, brings treats and delights. Here are shots from the former Flagler Hotel, now a college, in St. Augustine; a popular sandy island where we successfully flew our kite!; and, an anchorage nowhere special.

Well, we have made it down this far - today we are in North Palm Beach and have only 9 days left before meeting Peter Packer, another of Lou's former boat buddies who will be joining us in the passage over to the Bahamas...We hope the new year will be fun, adventurous and healthy for all of you reading this.