Eating Our Way Back Home

The Delights of the Chesapeake

Three states and a gazillion waterways: rivers, bays, creeks...So many places to explore and so little time! (One day I have to read Michener's Chesapeake.) In the meantime, we have seen so many wonderful sights and enjoyed the bountiful food of the region.

A Tasty Surprise

On our way to a sail shop to have our torn mainsail repaired, we motor- sailed with the jib and planned to anchor after traveling 50 miles, but alas, all of the possibilities for anchoring were shoaled in so we kept going. Twelve hours and 72 miles later (a record for us), we tied up at a free dock in Great Bridge, Virginia. (Not the Chesapeake, but a canal leading to it.)

We really needed to get off of the boat by then, so we crossed the bridge into a thoroughfare filled with stores and restaurants. After perusing the myriad of eateries, we chose Muroni's Mediterranean Restaurant which turned out to be a real find; fabulous food and exquisite presentation equal to any good restaurant in New York. We commented to the waitress that the owner should open a branch in NY, and next thing we knew, Mr. Muroni himself was introducing himself. We promised to add him to our blog, and here he is!

Another Farmers' Market

After thoroughly enjoying the fresh shrimp, shitake mushrooms, kohlrabi and freshly picked strawberries from a farmers' market in North Carolina, I made sure to visit another in the Chesapeake. This time I was able to get fresh sourdough bread and scallops and even picked up a basil plant to enhance our meals aboard. The seafood has been the best I've had in a long time making me wish I lived near the Chesapeake.

Ending the Day at the Crab Pot

While anchoring in a small harbor on the west coast of the Chesapeake to escape 30 kt. winds, we discovered Reedville, a wealthy town created by the harvesting of menhaden, an inedible fish used to make fertilizer and fish oil. At the end of the main street lined with captains' homes (see an example above), we explored the fisherman's museum which had a delightful

miniature town train exhibit. At the end of the day, we dinked across the harbor to the Crab Pot and dined on wonderful fried oysters and pulled pork; we bought sugar toes, a small local fish, which I prepared aboard with potatoes, onions, parsley, and spices. Yum!

Is this almost June? Despite the spring, we have been sailing in very cool temperatures, high winds, threatening skies and rain; Lou and I are bundled up while steering. You would think it was still winter! Did we leave the Bahamas too early?

A Dining Delight in Herring Bay

We took refuge from more 30 kt winds in Herring Bay further up the west coast of the Chesapeake. There was no one around and it was early, so we took the dinghy on a long ride into one of the marinas and discovered Skipper's Pier Restaurant. Everyone was freezing from the high winds, but it didn't stop them from sitting outside on the dock and enjoying the sun and wonderful food. We dined on appetizers at half price: egg rolls stuffed with collard greens and lightly spiced sausage in a delicious soy sauce - in fact, we ordered a second one - marinated skewered beef, and little neck clams in an orange flavored sauce that we soaked up with bread. That, topped off with beer, made up for the lost day of traveling. Funny thing, a few days later, when reviewing my log, I discovered we had been in Herring Bay on the way down south, had even taken a swim in the warm waters, but had no idea of the epicurean delights nearby!

A Bucolic Respite between Sails

Next day, we left by 7:00 am (we've begun to use the early morning hours to make time when the winds are calmer). A Small Craft Advisory was scheduled for the afternoon as it had yesterday, so we sneaked into Harness Creek off the South River of the Chesapeake. Our anchorage was alongside Quiet Waters County Park (Md.), and we went on a brisk walk to discover this fallen log carved into a person riding a serpent chased by a tiger. The day was calm, sunny and warm. Upon returning to the boat, we checked the forecast again and the Advisory was no longer in effect; so, our sails went back up and we traveled about 20 miles further up to another lovely anchorage.

The End of the Chesapeake At the north end of the bay in Maryland is the Chesapeake Canal which leads into Delaware. Before entering the canal is a marina and small basin for anchoring. And, here we found the Chesapeake Inn. What a scene it was when we arrived. We thought it was due to the Memorial Day weekend, but the waitress told us it was like this every 'nice' day. Cigarette boats (the long, sleek, very noisy and fast power boats) came and went all day, and the crowd gathered as if it were the hottest place on earth. We sat at the bar inside (didn't want to wait over an hour for a table), and ordered their famous pizza. This was exceptional pizza; a crust so light and tasty, not too thick, not too thin and wonderfully fresh toppings. You gotta go there!

Anchoring in the basin was another story, however. The basin was so crowded with small to large power boats and sailboats that we ended up anchoring 4 times. Despite the care we took, we still bumped with another boat early in the morning just as we awakened.

A Serendipitous Reunion with Cruising Friends

One of the wonderful things about cruising is the people you meet. We first met Nancy and Bruce of Seabird going south in the Dismal Swamp. We coincidentally kept pace with them throughout our trip allowing us to get to know them better. On the way north, however, we stopped seeing pretty much anyone we knew. We wondered where they all were. Well, after an 11 hour slog through the Delaware Bay motoring from the Canal (another record: 80 miles!), we came into the anchorage at Cape May, and luckily, I spotted Seabird through our binoculars! We were both so excited and invited them aboard to share our dinner which I had been able to prepare while motoring along: meatballs in a cranberry and chili sauce with stove top stuffing and broccoli. In the spirit of cruisers, they brought wine, an appetizer and dessert. They, too, are on their way home (to Maine), and are trying to use up all of their provisions. What a lovely time we had catching up and sharing experiences. Too bad we had to cut the evening short since we all had to be up at the crack of dawn to get an early start.

The Last Leg - The New and The Unfamiliar

The day before our approach to New York City thunderstorms were predicted. We were in need of a protected anchorage and Lou knew of one around the point from Coney Island. Who would think other than a boater that near the hustle and bustle of Brooklyn we could find such a secluded and lovely creek. We spent our last evening watching a male swan chasing the geese away from his cygnets. In the morning, we went under the Verrazano Bridge towards the NY skyline and by the afternoon passed the Tappanzee Bridge for our last meal of our 8 month trip. We were meeting our friends Marty and Mildred Stone at the Striped Bass, one of our favorite dock and dine restaurants in Tarrytown. (Can you tell who the sailors are?) At dusk, we headed across the river to the Nyack Boat Club to tie up for the night.

Home at Last

We are now ensconced in our home on land. It seemed a little strange at first, but now it feels as if we never went - and I'm writing this only a week after returning. I've begun donating clothes and items we really don't need or use because the house appears too cluttered. Right now we are consumed with what Lou calls the of "eternal dross of domesticity": cleaning, organizing, pruning, repairing, and the dreaded paperwork.

Will we go again? Probably, but not this year. Instead, we're thinking of heading to Maine in August/September. In the meantime, we hope to keep in touch with a few favorite cruisers we met along the way. And, of course, Lou has already begun to look at boats. After all, sailors aren't always cruisers. Ripple Effect started out as a sail boat, and along the way, it turned into a cruising boat. Although we weren't one of the smallest or simplest, we certainly were far less sophisticated than most. After all, it is written...

I must go down to the sea again, in a modern high-tech boat,

And all I ask is electric, for comfort while afloat,

And alternators, and solar panels, and generators going,

And deep cycle batteries with many amperes flowing.

I must go down to the sea again, to the autopilot's ways,

And all I ask is a GPS, and a radar, and displays,

And a cell phone, and a weatherfax, and a shortwave radio,

And compact disks, computer games and TV videos.

I must go down to the sea again, with a freezer full of steaks,

And all I ask is a microwave, and a blender for milkshakes,

And a watermaker, air-conditioner, hot water in the sink,

And e-mail and a VHF to see what my buddies think.

I must go down to the sea again, with power-furling sails,

And chart displays of all the seas, and a bullhorn for loud hails,

And motors pulling anchor chains, and push-button sheets,

And programs which take full charge of tacking during beats.

I must go down to the sea again, and not leave friends behind,

And so they never get seasick we'll use the web online,

And all I ask is an Internet with satellites over me,

And beaming all the data up, my friends sail virtually.

I must go down to the sea again, record the humpback whales,

Compute until I decipher their language and their tales,

And learn to sing in harmony, converse beneath the waves,

And befriend the gentle giants as my synthesizer plays.

I must go down to the sea again, with RAM in gigabytes,and teraflops of processing for hobbies that I like,

And software suiting all my wants, seated at my console

And pushing on the buttons which give me complete control.

I must go down to the sea again, my concept seems quite sound,

But when I simulate this boat, some problems I have found.

The cost is astronomical, repairs will never stop,

Instead of going sailing, I'll be shackled to the dock.

I must go down to the sea again, how can I get away?

Must I be locked in low-tech boats until my dying day?

Is there no cure for my complaint, no technologic fix?

Oh, I fear this electric fever is a habit I can't kick.

(written by Brian Eiland cat designer/builder)

Thanks to all of you who have followed our travels. We love your comments and emails. Until our next trip, Ripple Effect is over and out.

Traveling Home

April 20th, Crossing the Gulf Stream

No matter how good you are at navigation (here are the tools of our navigating: our chart, inlet book, and cruising book), you never know how your trip will turn out because of one small factor: the weather. Until the last minute we hadn't decided if we should make the crossing or not. We kept checking the weather periodically to make sure the winds were with us. Despite all of our researching and precautions, however, mother nature had it in for us.

It started out innocently enough. We were anchored off of an uninhabited island, Allans -Pensacola. This used to be two islands but after a hurricane, the shoals moved, and they are now joined. It was a beautiful, calm day and we dinghied ashore, met some cruisers, and walked across to the other side on a well-worn path to see the amazingly creative sculptures and driftwood signs cruisers have left identifying themselves and their vessels. Usually people gather flotsam and jetsum to craft a whimsical display, but here were some carefully planned and executed presentations. They went on and on from tree to tree. Here is one utilizing old cans that had washed ashore as drums, even with the necessary driftwood sticks! The sign above says, "I don't want to work, I just wanna bang on de drums all day ." Later that day our new friends Penny and George from Star Shot hailed us to say that they had decided to try for the crossing as well, and after a pleasant evening, we both headed west. The forecasts continued to be in our favor so on we went, ready to do an overnight crossing to Port Canaveral. Lou and Tony had carefully studied the navigation, and I prepared dinner and snacks for the overnight watches. I would be at the helm from 10:00 to midnight, Tony until 3:00am and Lou until dawn. We should have heeded the chop, however; as we continued west, the winds turned to north-north-east, a direction never recommended for crossing the Gulf Stream. By this time, it was too late to turn back, so we continued on slogging through the beating and banging. After a sleepless night, the sun came up on the coastline and we were happily greeted by the beautiful, blue waters of Florida. April 30th, The ICW and the Wacamaw River

I wasn't looking forward to traveling the IntraCoastal Waterway again. You know, been there, done that. But, the ICW is always changing and I had forgotten how beautiful it can be. Today we traveled along the Wacamaw River in South Carolina to anchor in an oxbow of a National Wildlife Preserve filled with budding lily pads floatingon the tannic colored water amid bright green cypress trees and their remaining knees. Tony and I took a dinghy ride around and tried to see the turtles sun bathing on driftwood, but they slipped into the water as soon as we came near. Suddenly, in the midst of the serene calm, a large tropical boat chugged by carrying tourists out of Myrtle Beach.

May 2nd, An Inlet Adventure The inlets allow you to leave and enter the ICW from the ocean to make faster time (hopefully). No fear of grounding or power boats speeding by that leave large wakes that roll your boat; no need for careful navigating from marker to marker, and a chance to sail! We had successfully used inlets twice before, once with Tony on an overnight, and a day sail on our own. We wanted to do it again since it was allowing us to make great time, but we didn't know the condition of the New River Inlet due to constant shoaling, so we called Tow Boat U.S., and they said it was ok, it had been dredged in the fall. So we went out the Masonboro/Wrightsville, which was very smooth, and very beautiful, and when we approached the New River buoys 5 hours later, we found waves breaking over them and the depth sounder plummeted to 3 feet. Lou immediately turned around and hailed Tow Boat U.S. on the radio who told us said there must have been a misunderstanding, they never recommend it during these tide conditions (very rolly); "What options did we have?", Lou asked. "Go on to the Bogue Inlet; I'll meet you there and guide you in." And that's just what we did. (Here is Tim with his dog showing us the way.) Of course, the seas were rocking and rolling by that time and we were bushed by 6:00 when we got into our anchorage. Luckily, it was the lovely town of Swansboro, N.C. which we had stopped at on the way down. So, we went ashore, had drinks and dinner at this restaurant on the water as we decompressed and rebalanced our inner rocking, and later, fell into bed.

May 10th, Surprises in Bath and Washington, N.C.

Due to our quick progress up the coast, we had some time to play. (Our home won't be available until May 31st when our tenant moves out) We had heard alot about the charm of both Bath and Washington, North Carolina, and took a 66 mile detour up (and down) the Pamlico River to tie up at a free dock at their separate waterfronts. Here are some surprising events we experienced. You can see why we would return! Bath is the first incorporated city of North Carolina and is filled with green lawns and historic homes and buildings. We passed this library, stopped in to rest, and found that they had a book exchange for boaters. I picked up a copy of a current book Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert, a novel of travel and introspection perfect for me on this trip!

During our walk we passed a field filled with a grain, perhaps wheat? What do we city dwellers

know of crops?

Just as we returned to our boat at the dock, 20kt winds developed without warning. We were on the wrong side of the dock for leaving or peaceful sleep. So Lou and two sailing couples also at the dock helped to kedge off the boat to move it to the leeward (opposite of windward) side of the dock. What that meant was using the dinghy to drop an anchor, attach it to the boat, and use it to pull the bow of the boat into the wind. Despite almost getting the anchor line wrapped around the keel of the boat, it was a successful operation.

People were so friendly in Washington, North Carolina, that they offered to drive us to do our chores, and in fact, the dock attendant drove Lou to a store to get a new tank of propane gas which we use for our stove. In addition, when we were at the local watch repair shop, the owner gave us her personal telephone number in case we needed anything. While I got a haircut, Lou wandered through town and discovered a store that had closed in Nyack and moved south. He used to stop in monthly as a member of their Ginger Club. (After buying 10 bags of crystallized ginger, he got one free.) Of course he stopped in and found Jean, co-owner of Cat Bamboo who remembered him with delight (here she is with her dog on the dock in the above picture) and joined us later for drinks on board. Stopping into the River Gallery, we noticed food being set out. We were just in time for their quarterly open house/reception. What a feast. Every gallery member had brought something homemade. We got to meet so many friendly, interesting people, and even bought a mug and pair of earrings. At the gallery reception, we met Sandy and Joe Davis. Sandy came the next day to interview us for an article in the local paper, and invited

us to their home for dinner. We had trout just caught by her friend, and home baked pecan pie from the mother of one of their boarders, Steve. Here I am with the Davises in their dining room. It was the day before Mother's Day and the flowers were sent to Sandy by her daughter in Israel. May 11th, Stuck in South Lake, N.C. We woke to cloudy, raw and chilly temperatures and had to break out the fleece, gloves and woolen hats. We were actually able to see the vapor of our breath. This meant oatmeal and hot chocolate for warming up. The winds were only 10-15 this morning in the Alligator River, but were expected to reach 35 knots this afternoon. We were racing to the swing bridge before the winds increased since it wouldn't open if they exceeded 35 kts. Got through the bridge, but then heavy rain and winds started so we ducked into an isolated, but protected cove about an hour away to wait out the storm. Now the forecast says the gale won't abate until Wednesday, 3 days away. We'll have to wait to cross the Albermarle Sound into Virginia until then as the winds there can be fierce. Can't even go ashore due to high winds, rain, thunderstorms, and a tornado watch last night. Hope Lou and I don't kill each other by then! Well, at least our cell phones work, and I made brownies to nurture us. On the second day, Lou moved the boat still further inland to a smaller stream with a more protected aspect from the north winds which had developed during the night. The winds continued for the rest of the day, but it was calmer and just beautiful.

Only 2 more weeks to go...

GETTING DEPORTED !!!

I must be joking, you think. Well, think again. Here's the whole story:

When we entered the Bahamas with our friends Peter and Nancy, Lou went to immigration while we waited, as per the law, on board. The office was closed so he had to walk to the officer's house and return to the office with her to fill out the papers. When he handed me the papers for safekeeping, I filed them, without looking; because the officer would only give us a 3 month visa, Lou posted a reminder in the boat to get our visas renewed in April.

April comes, and while looking at our file in order to identify the appropriate papers, Lou discovers an error. Instead of 3 months, I had been given 14 days. How did this happen? We realize Peter or Nancy must have been given 3 months instead of me. So, we walk to the immigration office on Great Abaco Island, and explain the situation to the clerk at the desk who tells me I will have to leave the country. She admits that a mistake was made, but tells us that we have to take the consequences of not looking at the papers when they were filled out; that we waited 3 months to come in (despite the fact that we hadn't known) and that was that. When I tell her we can't leave, we're on a boat, she replies, "Which part of ""You have to leave the country, don't you understand?""!!! After a while of continued repartee, she leaves and returns to usher us into the office of her superior.

We take off our caps, sun glasses, and sit down. Mr. Hutcheson informs us that everything we have been told is accurate, it's the law; how do I want to leave? At this point, Lou and I are not only in shock, but are aware of the power this man wields over us. After all, he could refuse to extend Lou's visa, or not let me back into the country. I wonder to myself whether he gets a kick-back from the airline. So, we're polite; it's Mr. Hutcheson this and Mr. Hutcheson that until he drives me to the airport sans toiletries or change of clothes because it is too late in the day to make the last flight. And, it is also too late to do a return flight in the same day, so I'll have to stay overnight in Ft. Lauderdale.

At the airport, the clerk gives me a discount rate, I kiss Lou goodbye, and fly off in the Yellow Air Taxi you see in the picture above. It's an 8 seater and the 2 hour trip is gorgeous as I fly over the islands, the ocean, and approach the skyscrapers lining the Florida coast.

In the airport, I'm able to easily call the reservation desks of several nearby hotels by pressing the button aligned to the ads on a horizontal kiosk; I pick Best Western which has the best rate. Pick up and delivery are included as well as a full breakfast.

The rest of the day went smoothly and was quite enjoyable. With my free wifi in the room (thank goodness I had our laptop with me!), I was able to post 3 new updates on my blog, make inexpensive calls using Skype from the computer, watch TV (there was nothing on), take a long, hot shower, and get in and out of a bed without having to do any gymnastics.

Next morning, the full buffet breakfast turned out to be good enough despite the inedible powdered scrambled eggs. With time to kill before my flight, I walked to the nearby mall where I picked up a DVD containing 20 black and white early comedies for only $6.00. (We've already watched the Chaplin, Laurel & Hardy & Albert & Costello - great fun!)

After an uneventful trip back, Lou met me at a local restaurant where we shared stories over rum and coke.

Well, if you have to get deported, this wasn't so bad, except for the $400.00 it cost me. My son Damien, ever the financier, asked what would have happened if I hadn't had the money...good question, but I'm glad I didn't have to find out. Other than the inconvenience and expense, what I will retain from this experience were the feelings of humiliation and powerless- ness as if I were a third class citizen; and that was a result of the attitude of the immigration employees.

What would have happened if we hadn't been honest and tried to extend our visa? We've met many cruisers who say they don't do anything and have no trouble. Yet, one man did admit having the same experience the year before; his delinquent visa date was caught by accident despite numerous previous trips to the Bahamas.

Now I'm a statistic. One of the few sent back. But don't think I won't do anything. I plan to send an email to the department of tourism in response to their request for comments regarding our trip to their country.

North to the Abacos

The morning we left for the northern Abaco islands, we decided at 7:00 am to follow Ole Pot (his name on his business card!) out through the passage past the Devil's Backbone. Three other boats were supposed to leave with us, but one developed transmission trouble, so he and his buddy boat stayed behind to fix it. That left Mary T who, like us, decided at the last minute to follow the guide. It was pretty funny since he was speeding along with his little outboard motor, and we had to ask him to stay closer for our slow sail boats. In addition, it was just about impossible to understand him given his strong accent and the fact that his hand held VHF radio was full of static. It turned out that the route he followed was identical to that on our GPS, but Mary T's chartplotter showed them on the land. Well, as Lou said, " It was cheap insurance for $35.00."

The destination to this northern Bahamian island chain would be 9 hours long - not very bad since we've traveled this long many times before. This trip, however, was different. Chaotic seas were predicted, and this was my first taste of a long sail in such seas. What are chaotic seas, you might ask? Well, the waves come from different directions and cause the boat to flop around unmercifully throwing you to and fro. After 7 hours, I had had enough, yet had to wait for a safe place to anchor. To make matters worse, the conditions caused too much turbulence in the first cut into a harbor, so we had to continue on for another hour to get to the next cut. Lou, of course, was having a ball with 20 kt winds, and I found that steering helped me and my internal system as well. I was also helped by Sturgeron, a medication for motion sickness sold here in the Bahamas which has no side effects! Two sights along the way made the trip worthwhile. First, I spotted a pod of dolphins through the clear water swimming alongside the boat. The second was something never seen before: beds of seaweed so thick that flotsam and birds were floating on top. Here you can see one of the beaches in the Abacos covered with the seaweed. Perhaps this is a seasonal or weather related occurance.

The Abacos are quite different from the central and southern Bahamas: more of a northern look, more development, more affluence, more Americans. Here are a few highlights from our few weeks there. Hope Town, Elbow Cay

Our adventure here was in a lighthouse. It's the last light kerosene hand operated lighthouses in the Bahamas. We learned that it took years to be built due to sabotage by the local 'wreckers' who made a living from the monthly wrecks that ran aground on the nearby reefs. We climbed to the top, and after taking lots of pictures, were allowed inside to watch Fred, one of two lighthouse keepers, light and crank the apparatus. Fred has worked as the keeper for 37 years, has lived on the grounds (here is his house), and has 5 more years to go before retiring.

Nippers on Guana Cay Nippers is a restaurant/bar/resort on a gorgeous beach overlooking the Atlantic. It is the site for thousands of people twice a year who gather for a concert. The place was hopping when we arrived, partly due to spring break back home. Note the interesting bathing suit on the right above.

Treasure Cay

The beach of this popular resort area, is one of the ten best beaches designated by National Geographic but today was covered in seaweed. Here are some contrasting views from our boat:

Dense palm trees on one side, and resort cottages and their boats on the other. The marina nearby was host to a fishing tournament and everyday the tall fishing boats would come back with their catch. These were pretty and small compared to what they were really after. (sorry, can't figure out how to rotate picture on this program)

Man O' War

This very religious white community founded by Loyalists is so neat and clean, you could just about eat off of the streets. You can see the pride they take in their houses and gardens; in fact, they've won national awards for it. We walked the residential and commercial streets and took a look at the beach. They were boat builders and you can still see them working in their yards.

Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Island

The third largest city in the Bahamas, not very attractive, but full of the services we occasionally needed and yearned for. It is also the location of the airport from which I was deported for a day. (see my next post). After I returned, our friend Tony joined us for a third time to make the crossing over the Gulf Stream and help us get north faster by getting off the intracoastal into the ocean.

Next stop: The good ole U.S. of A!